As New Zealand writer Kevin Ireland once observed, Auckland has a weight problem: "It is one of the biggest cities in the world. Its swollen bulk hangs out over the constricting belt of its isthmus and bulges further than the eye can see. Its head cannot locate its toes."
Over a quarter of the nation's inhabitants live in the Auckland region. Since the Maori alighted from their waka (canoes) to occupy the densely forested land, a steady stream of migrants have followed; Europeans, Asians and Polynesians have all made the journey to create the largest Polynesian enclave in the world. More than 50 volcanoes have erupted in Auckland, permanently scarring its landscape. The last, 600 years ago, gave birth to
Central Business District
The main artery, Queen Street, studded with retail and commercial buildings, flows from Newton to Downtown, with the shadow of the
The main fashion hub is located nearby on High Street, and is home to some of the world's hottest new labels:
A passion for uprooting the past (Auckland was once dubbed the "City of Cranes") began with Pakeha (European settlers) removing entire volcanic cones in order to revamp the waterfront. Now it is an essential playground for all. Millions have been spent beautifying
On the inner city fringe lies the infamous
South of the Domain, you can fully appreciate the city from the summit of
West of downtown, you'll find
Newmarket and Parnell
Heading east, but still hovering on the fringes of the city, are the suburbs of Newmarket and Parnell. Newmarket is a fashion addict's delight, and perhaps a smarter, slicker version of Parnell, once the domain of yuppie excess. A more sober past is reflected in historic buildings such as
South Auckland
Manukau City, with 50 different ethnic communities, is proudly multi-cultural. It shows off its Polynesian flair in a cornucopia of markets, festivals, community churches and some of the region's most diverse shopping, including
West Auckland
West Auckland offers rugged scenic beauty and, as home to the Dalmatian population, has a unique cultural heritage. To fully appreciate its natural attractions, drive 45 minutes west from the city to the black sand and surf beaches at
There are a number of established family wineries here also, notably
The North Shore
Across the
Beyond the confines of the city lie the 47 islands of the Hauraki Gulf Maritime Park, including
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Auckland has it all: a thriving coffee culture that manifests itself in stylish cafés that seem to be everywhere, vineyard restaurants set amongst the grapes, a heady mix of Asian food led by the city's large Oriental and Fijian-Indian communities, Mediterranean-style eateries in the form of Turkish mezze bars, Italian wood-fired pizzerias and the best that France has to offer. Unlike most cities, Auckland does not group its cuisines into ethnic districts. They are wonderfully blended, so you can find what you want no matter where you are.
Parnell
Parnell is a long-established foodie enclave, with restaurants, bars and cafés dotted all the way along the rise. There are eateries lining the pavement, in brick-lined backstreet courtyards and tucked away in charming warren-like old buildings. Try Non Solo Pizza for an alfresco meal that runs the whole gamut of Italian food. Thai Friends is a local favorite that has both a fast food café on the street and a more serious dining room set in traditional Thai decor at the back. Or stick your head in at Iguacu, an always-busy Cajun-fusion restaurant and bar offering live jazz on the weekends.
Ponsonby
Before the Viaduct Harbour rose to prominence, Ponsonby was Auckland's most popular eating district, with a string of eclectic places stretching along Ponsonby Road. Though the buzz has died down a little, this is still the heart of café culture in the city. The Atomic Café is one of the city's busiest and most well-established cafés, known for its legendary coffee and its choice menu. Across the road is trendy S.P.Q.R, a favorite for its well-prepared light meals that can be washed down with lots of wine. Also try the nearby South American owned and operated café Santos. For Indian meals in a modern brasserie setting, Masala is a good bet.
Central City
Find yourself in downtown Auckland at lunch time, and you will see the place filled with workers enjoying café society. In the evening, the city is awash with the noise of Aucklanders out to have a good time. Columbus Coffee roasts their own, so sit down in this beautifully designed café and breathe in the heady aroma. Step into the Occidental on Vulcan Lane and you are in Belgium. There is a good selection of imported beers on tap here that you can enjoy accompanied with a massive bowl of green-lipped mussels. The local watering hole, the Shakespeare Tavern on Albert Street, brews its own award-winning ale.
The city also boasts numerous food courts, where you will find the meeting of many cuisines under one roof. If you are on a budget then this is the way to do it. Food Alley on Albert Street is the best place for Asian food, with Thai, Chinese, Korean, Japanese, Indian, Malaysian and Indonesian all on the menu. Downstairs at the Force Entertainment Center there is another food court with a blend of European and Asian cuisine, albeit in more upmarket surroundings.
Viaduct Harbour
Hosting the America's Cup in 1999 and 2000 totally rejuvenated Auckland's downtown and waterfront area with a myriad of new places to eat and drink springing up as a result. Evenings and weekends find the streets and wharves around the Viaduct Harbour swarming with Aucklanders as they enjoy a relatively new side to their city.
Do not miss the establishments along Prince's Wharf, in particular Euro, which consistently rates highly in the "Best of Auckland" awards. Just around the corner is Leftfield, an immense sports bar and restaurant with televisions and stadium-style seating. For the carnivore, Wildfire is a Brazilian-style eatery, boasting succulent spitfire roasted beef, lamb and seafood. For a real seafood extravaganza, wander over to to Kermadec in the Viaduct Quay complex. This well established, high end restaurant puts the Pacific on a plate in dining rooms overlooking the water.
Just remember, however, these enclaves and eateries are just the tip of the culinary iceberg. There is much more to be discovered if you dig a little deeper, for example Waiheke Island, jewel of the Hauraki Gulf, with its vineyards and sea-view cafés. A trip to the suburbs of Newmarket, Devonport, Takapuna, Herne Bay and Mission Bay will reap many culinary rewards.
Combining laid-back style with the urban sophistication found in a big city, Auckland is a great place to spend some time. Whether your idea of heaven is champagne and harbor views, dancing to the beats of an international DJ, or downing espresso in a bustling city café, the "City of Sails" has it covered.
Live Music
Auckland has a thriving local music scene. Big names tend to play the Town Hall, Ericsson Stadium and the Powerstation. Local alternative bands can be found mostly in places like Iguacu Restaurant & Bar. Jazz, blues and folk are always humming at Deschlers Bar and Roots Bar/Cafe and Cabaret offers up African sounds with DJs and live dancers. Tickets for mainstream events can usually be purchased at Ticketek or Real Groovy Records.
Museums and Galleries
The Auckland War Memorial Museum houses New Zealand's largest collection of Maori artifacts, as well as many interactive displays. The real reason to come here is for the unique Maori cultural performance, that includes a traditional dance and stick games. The Auckland Art Gallery Toi o Tamaki has an extensive collection of regional art on a regularly rotating schedule. The New Gallery houses all of their contemporary works. Explore Auckland's rich nautical history at the New Zealand National Maritime Museum, which features 14 galleries, fully restored vessels and educational cruises.
The Artis Gallery showcases contemporary paintings, photographs and sculptures, while the Te Taumata Art Gallery houses contemporary pieces created by Moari artists. The child-friendly Monterey Park Museum has a vintage car collection and the famed Model World, where visitors can explore miniature replications of famous Auckland landmarks, as well as those of boats and trains.
Theater and Cinema
From international hits to indie gems, Auckland's theater scene is ever-expanding. Big touring shows, as well as productions by Auckland Opera and The New Zealand Ballet, can be found at The Aotea Centre. The Auckland Theatre Company offers a superb program of plays at the Maidment Theatre, while the Silo Theatre is home to the fringe.
Cinema lovers will find many modern multiplexes. The Force Entertainment Centre on Aotea Square is particularly impressive and also houses an IMAX Cinema. The recently refurbished Civic Theatre is definitely worth a visit, for its architectural beauty alone. The Auckland International Film Festival enjoys tremendous local support.
Parks and Gardens
A visit to one of the city's many parks and gardens is also a must. One Tree Hill was once a volcano and can be found in Cornwall Park. Eden Garden is nearly four decades old, and has an impressive collection of exotic flowers. Albert Park is close to the University of Auckland and is the location of many local concerts, while Cornwall Park is a quiet sanctuary that is also home to grazing sheep.
You can spend the whole day at Western Springs touring its many lakes and feeding the resident ducks. The elegant Auckland Botanic Gardens is a good place to go if you want to learn more about the city's natural side. Check out the ocean views and camping grounds at Tawhitokino Regional Park and Tapapakanga Point.
Festivals
The events calendar has something for everyone. The TV2 International Film Festival attracts well-known and rising comedy stars, both local and international. The Montana Waiheke Island of Jazz Festival has become a fine Easter tradition, while gardening buffs will love the Ellerslie Flower Show.
The Domain attracts huge turnouts. Throughout the summer, there is a full program of music in parks, and radio station 95 bFM is famous for its Albert Park Summer Series.
Alternative music lovers flock to the Big Day Out, which showcases heavyweight international performers. Auckland has the largest Polynesian population in the world, and no better way is this celebrated than with the annual Pasifika Festival.
You can experience Auckland's extraordinary setting from a vast selection of world-class hotels, serviced apartments, bed and breakfasts, and boutique or backpacker lodges. It pays to choose your location wisely. Despite its size, Auckland has not quite resolved the sensitive issue of public transport. A sensible solution would be to stay near the Central Business District, where it's just a short walk, bus or taxi ride to explore the city's many attractions.
Central Business District
The clusters of boats on the harbor explain Auckland's reputation as the “City of Sails,” and like its sailors, the waterfront is of a high international standard. Thanks largely to the America's Cup 2000, Auckland has finally realized the value of its waterfront, and the recently upgraded Viaduct Harbour is the city's real estate jewel. If you are on business, or just want to be center stage, Auckland's city center is the obvious choice.
If you seek high-class accommodation try the trendy, art-deco luxury of The Heritage Auckland, once the stomping ground for bargain hunters in its former incarnation as the Farmers Trading Company store. For spectacular harbor views on the waterfront, consider the boutique Hilton Auckland, or the Sebel Suites.
Further uptown, in the heart of the city's cultural and entertainment area, the Carlton Hotel promises world-class style, and the aptly named Somerset Grand Metropolis, once the Magistrate's courthouse, is now open to a new clientèle. More reasonable accomodation can be found at the Centra Auckland, the CityLife Auckland and the Sky City Hotel, which has the Sky City Casino downstairs. For those on a budget, there are plenty of options; from the New President Hotel, to Auckland Central Backpackers and the ubiquitous YHA youth hostel.
Parnell
Parnell, close to the city fringe, is a gentrified haven full of trendy eateries and specialist boutiques, which coexist alongside Auckland's historic houses. Parnell is also within walking distance of the trendy shops of Newmarket, and the Domain, a massive park that houses Wintergardens and the Auckland War Memorial Museum. Take your pick from the Ascot Parnell, Chalet Chevron or Barrycourt Motor Inn near the Parnell Rose Gardens.
Mt Eden
Heading south is the suburb of Mt Eden, dominated by the volcano Maungawhau, an ancient fortress. The summit crater is sacred to the Maori. At the base of the mountain is a cool collection of cafés, and sports fans will enjoy easy access to Eden Park, the famous battleground of so many international rugby and cricket matches. Not so genteel, but worth considering is the area around One Tree Hill. Both are sedate suburbs oozing middle-class charm, but they offer a good range of inexpensive hotels. Check out Oaklands Lodge, Pentlands Bed and Breakfast Hotel and Bavaria Bed and Breakfast.
Devonport
Leave the city hype behind by taking a 10 minute ferry ride to Devonport, and delight in its seaside charm and quaint surroundings. This historic village is well supplied with bed and breakfast hotels, many in beautifully renovated Victorian or Edwardian villas. With such comforting names as the Secret Garden Bed and Breakfast, it is little wonder you are transported to another time and place! At night you will enjoy stunning panoramic views of Auckland's city lights.
Alternatives
Ponsonby's main road is studded with restaurants and is a wise choice for the enthusiastic gourmand. There are a number of accommodation options near the main strip. Try the Great Ponsonby Bed and Breakfast or the Brown Kiwi; both are moderately or inexpensively priced.
If you want to escape the city lights and explore nature, then head west to the near-tropical rainforests of the Waitakere Ranges. You will not find five-star hotels, but if you are satisfied with good old Kiwi hospitality there are plenty of cozy home stays and bed and breakfast hotels, some with spectacular views of the west coast beaches. An interesting option out west is Camperdown Farmstay. For a truly escapist holiday or weekend break from Auckland, consider Waiheke Island or the outer islands of Kawau and Great Barrier.
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