Jutting out east into the Mediterranean, the 20 sq km peninsula that is Ceuta has been a Spanish enclave since 1640, meaning you cross an international border to get here. If you've been spending time in Morocco, Spanish Ceuta's relaxed, well-kept city centre with bars and cafés and Andalucian atmosphere provide a sharp contrast to the other side of the border. Despite being in the EU, Ceuta is still recognisably African. Between a quarter and third of the population are of Rif Berber origin, giving the enclave a fascinating Iberian-African mix. This interplay of cultures has been put to the test in recent years, particularly following the Madrid bombings of 2004. In spring 2006, youths set fire to several mosques in Ceuta, after a number of Ceuta-born Muslims were arrested on the Spanish mainland on terror charges.