Chicago, Illinois

The first non-native to settle in the area now known as Chicago was Jean Baptiste Pointe du Sable, a fugitive slave from San Domingo. By 1779, a small settlement had sprung up around his camp, and du Sable's stake was eventually purchased by another trader, who was bought out by Jonathan Kinzie in 1804. As the settlement grew, the government began to see it as a gateway to the Western frontier and erected Fort Dearborn (now the Michigan Avenue Bridge), where the Chicago River and Lake Michigan kissed. The Native Americans were quite unhappy with this situation and in 1812 massacred most of the soldiers and their families. The fort was rebuilt in 1814 and by 1833 Chicago was a lively frontier town.

The promise of a quick buck drew people, and in 1837 Chicago was officially incorporated as a city. The Illinois and Michigan canal opened in 1848. Rail lines soon followed, and Chicago became the nation's inland shipping hub. With the opening of the Union Stockyards on the western fringe of town, Chicago, as poet Carl Sandburg famously put it, became the "hog butcher to the world."

In the 1850s and 1860s, things could not have looked brighter. In just a few years, Chicago grew from a small frontier town to a booming metropolis on the lake, drawing both Easterners and European immigrants.

The summer of 1871 was a scorcher, and rain was scarce. Catherine O'Leary lived on the city's southwest side, and on the evening of October 8, a small fire began in her barn and started to spread. The cow knocking the lantern over into a pile of hay has become the stuff of legends, but no one really knows what started the blaze that would become known as the Great Chicago Fire.

The fire swept across the Chicago River and burnt the business center of the city to the ground. It continued north, destroying everything in its path all the way to Fullerton Avenue. Firefighters were powerless, but the clouds finally granted Chicago a few precious drops of rain, which started to beat the flames into submission 25 hours after the fire began. Most of the city was in rubble, 100,000 people were homeless, 17,450 buildings were burnt to ash. At the time, losses were estimated at 200 million. Chicago was rebuilt from the ground up, bigger, better and more uniquely American than any other city in the country. Louis Sullivan, Daniel Burnham, John Root and Dankmar Adler, among other renowned architects, joined local builders. "Form followed function" and buildings rose to the sky supported by gridworks of steel. Such masterpieces as the Rookery Building, the Monadnock Building, the Auditorium Theatre Building, and the Marquette Building took shape during this time. To prove its place, a group of politicians and businessmen set out to secure Chicago as the site of the 1893 World's Fair through a blustery campaign of self-promotion. A bitter rivalry ensued between Chicago, St. Louis, Washington D.C. and especially New York. In the New York Sun, editorialist Charles A. Dana warned not to listen "to the nonsensical claims of that windy city. Its people could not build a World's Fair even if they won it." Although proven wrong, Dana did coin Chicago's most common nickname, "The Windy City."

Chicago won the contest and built the fair. Under the guidance of Daniel Hudson Burnham, whose motto was "make no little plans, for they have no magic to stir men's blood," a gleaming city of white was erected in Jackson Park. Today, the Museum of Science and Industry stands as the sole survivor of the fairgrounds.

For years, the Levee District was the seat of the corrupt First Ward, run by two of Chicago's greatest characters, Michael "Hinky Dink" Kenna and John "Bathhouse" Coughlin. Theirs was an empire that consisted of the riches of the Loop and the spoils of vice. For years, they reigned as the "Lords of the Levee," but changing social tides brought their empire to an end.

The late 1890s were a time of social reform, and Chicago was in need of reforming, even though one politician screamed that "Chicago ain't ready for reform yet." Under the leadership of Jane Addams and her settlement house movement begun at The Hull House, the lives of thousands of immigrants were made better. At the same time, former baseball player turned minister Billy Sunday, with the support of the Women's Christian Temperance Union, turned his eyes to the Levee. Increasing public outrage at Hinky Dink's and Bathhouse's shenanigans ended in the breakup of the Levee.

While unions and social workers, with the aid of such writers as Upton Sinclair and Theodore Dreiser, alleviated some of the conditions of the poor, the vice that had been contained in the Levee spread through the city. With no centralized base of control, gangs formed to stake their claims. Chicago was about to enter its bloodiest era, one that still stains the public imagination.

During Prohibition, Al Capone had almost a stranglehold on the liquor supply to the city, and he used any means necessary to keep that control. Prohibition ended in 1933, but the fear and violence did not end. Even though Capone was in jail, "The Outfit" continued to run vice in the city. With the coming of the Great Depression in 1929, things only got worse.

Bright moments emerged in the 1930s, though. In 1933, Chicago once again hosted a World's Fair. Chicago pioneered in the broadcasting industry, and would go on to pioneer in television a decade later. Chicago was also a musical innovator. Jazz had crept into the city from New Orleans, along with the likes of Louis Armstrong, and Chicago put its own spin on the music. Benny Goodman learned to play the clarinet at Hull House and in the 1930s ignited America with his brand of swing.

World War II shook America and Chicago out of the Depression. Chicago was a big player in the manufacture and repair of war ships. Municipal Pier, now Navy Pier, became a temporary Navy base and hundreds of Rosie the Riveters could be seen bustling to work each day. The end of the war brought another boom-time, and Chicago prospered with new building projects. 1968 was a notorious year. The Democrats met in Chicago to nominate their presidential candidate. A large group of protesters assembled near The Congress Plaza Hotel on Michigan Avenue. Fearing a violent uprising, Mayor Richard J. Daley cracked down hard. Film footage of Chicago cops clobbering protesters is still hard to watch. Dissatisfaction set in, and many once proud neighborhoods began to crumble. The 1970s saw a period of great urban decline. Things looked bleak. And then the 1980s hit.

With the upsurge in the economy, building began once more in the Loop, with huge office towers springing up everywhere, joining the ranks of the Willis Tower (formerly the Sears Tower) and the John Hancock Tower. It was the busiest time for building in the Loop since Mies van der Rohe erected his steel and glass buildings 20 years before. An influx of people returned to the city from the suburbs. Neighborhoods that had been in decline, such as Lincoln Park and Lakeview, had new life breathed into them.

Today, Chicago stands as a thriving metropolis, the proud home of millions and a popular destination for travelers.

Great food isn't the only thing this city has to offer. From its world-class theaters and museums to its ever-growing music and arts scene, Chicago has staked its claim as the Midwest's entertainment capital.

Architecture

You cannot talk about art in Chicago without mentioning its architecture, from the modern behemoth that is the Willis Tower to the old Water Tower. Several buildings showcase the Modernist genius of Ludwig Miesvan der Rohe, including the IBM building, the Ralph Metcalf Federal Building, numerous structures on the Illinois Institute of Technology campus, and twin "glass house" apartment buildings on Lake Shore Drive. World-renowned architect Frank Lloyd Wright designed many of the beautiful buildings that make the city and surrounding suburbs unique; learn more about him with a visit to his Home and Studio in Oak Park. While in the suburb, be sure to see Unity Temple, the Unitarian Church that Wright designed.

To gain a thorough understanding of the buildings that surround you, visit the Chicago Architecture Foundation, which offers an array of tours by foot, bus and even water. The River Cruise is highly recommended. Another great place to visit is the Chicago Athenaeum: Museum of Architecture and Design, which offers tours, unique exhibits and a wonderful book and gift store.

Film

The Chicago International Film Festival is one of the country's oldest competitive film festivals—a must-see if you happen to be here in the fall. The Navy Pier Imax Theatre is a nice alternative to the standard movie house fare, offering an exciting, panoramic 3-D viewing experience. The Gene Siskel Film Center at the Art Institute of Chicago presents world cinema in a non-commercial context, and hosts a monthly film series. For classic movies in a classic theater, visit the distinctive Music Box Theatre, which shows old films at weekend matinees and foreign and artsy films in the evening.

Music

Chicago is a blues town, with many great blues houses to choose from. Buddy Guy's Legends, owned by the legendary bluesman himself, is sure to please. Kingston Mines is one of the oldest venues in the city, but still holds its own with low admission prices. For great jazz, try the Green Mill, a former Al Capone-owned speakeasy where the best and hottest still play. Another good bet is the Jazz Showcase, which brings big name acts into town. Grant Park offers Blues and Jazz festivals each year.

Alternatives to the blues and jazz are provided by the Cubby Bear, which features rock-n-roll acts. For more live rock, don't miss the Double Door, the Metro, the Riviera or the Aragon Ballroom. If you've ever wanted to be the performer on stage, then head to the Old Town School of Folk Music, which holds classes as well as public performances.

For the more classical side of Chicago, the Chicago Symphony Orchestra and the Lyric Opera are world renowned.

Museums & Galleries

Chicago has a diverse offering of museums. Depending on your length of stay, you will want to take in several of these gems. The Art Institute of Chicago features French Impressionists, an Oriental Collection and great special exhibits. The Adler Planetarium offers a wide array of hands-on exhibits and information about the universe. The Field Museum of Natural History features Sue, the world's most complete remains of a T-Rex. The Shedd Aquarium, the world's largest indoor aquarium and oceanarium, showcases beluga whales. The mammoth Museum of Science and Industry includes a coal mine, a German U-Boat and a Zephyr, and an old-style steam train, all under one roof.

Art lovers will find plenty of options in this city. An obvious choice is the world-class Art Institute of Chicago, which houses a renowned Impressionist collection. The Museum of Contemporary Art and the Terra Museum of American Art are other good bets.

For a more hands-on arts experience, you will not want to miss the summer's 57th Street Art Fair in Hyde Park on the South Side. It is a delightful way to view and purchase original works by local artists. Finally, don't miss dipping in and out of Chicago's myriad galleries. River North is a good place to start. You'll find Carl Hammer Gallery, Fassbender Gallery, and the Illinois Institute of Art all within a few short blocks of each other.

Theater

Increasingly, the Loop has become the place to be for large-scale theater. The Cadillac Palace Theatre joins the ranks of the Ford Center for the Performing Arts-Oriental Theatre, the Auditorium Theatre and the Chicago Theatre for Broadway-style shows. The Goodman Theatre has relocated from the Art Institute to a North Loop site. Some good off-Loop theater options include the Steppenwolf Theater, the Victory Gardens Theater and the Royal George Theatre Center.

Comedy

Second City has launched many a comedian's career, especially those of Saturday Night Live fame. Seating is cabaret-style, the drinks are good, and the improv ensemble shows are top-notch hilarious. Zanies is a Chicago standout for stand-up comedy, with occasional appearances by established stars. For unique, off-the-wall productions, try the Neo-Futurarium.