Mexico's largest island, Cozumel, is a heady mix of cosmopolitan restaurants, hotels and shops set amidst astounding natural beauty. It has become famous for its superb scuba diving, and also as a cruise ship destination where stylish amenities are offered in a simple island atmosphere.
San Miguel de Cozumel
Cozumel's only town, San Miguel, has a laid back elegance combining the charming remnants of colonial Mexico with the conveniences of modern life. Its heart and soul is the center plaza, known officially as Parque Benito Juarez, but often referred to as the zocalo, or simply as
Running parallel to Avenida Melgar is the malecón, an ocean-side boardwalk decorated with sculptures commemorating events in Cozumel's history. Follow it north to the tidy
Costera Norte
North and south of San Miguel are where the luxurious hotels and beaches start. The Costera Norte (North Coast), informally called Zona Hotelera Norte, begins just past the airport road. Much of its beachfront has been taken over by posh resorts with their grand lobbies and pools. The longest beach is Santa Pilar Beach, followed by
Costera Sur
The Southern Hotel Zone, located along Carretera Chankanaab, and also known as the Costera Sur, offers the best beaches beginning at
The first attraction along the way is the popular
The two largest beaches,
Parque Punta Sur to Punta Molas
Just as the highway turns north you will find
Paradise Beach is the first beach just outside of the park's entrance. Close to
Ixchel's Ceremonial Center
Located in the lush sub-tropical forest, the serene
Mainland
Cozumel is 11.5 miles (18 km) from the mainland and
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Cozumel has a history that spans three epochs and three different cultures. During the time of the ancient Maya, the island was known as Ah-Cuzamil-Peten—Land of the Swallows. From 300 CE until the arrival of the Conquistadors in the 15th Century, Cozumel was an important trade and religious center. Merchants came to buy the salt and honey produced on the island. The Maya considered salt and honey more valuable than gold. Historians believe the El Caracol ruin was built as an ancient lighthouse to guide these travelers safely ashore.
Cozumel was also the religious center for Ixchel (Lady Rainbow), the Maya goddess of fertility, pregnancy and childbirth. Ixchel is one of the most important gods in the Maya religious pantheon as she is the mother of all other gods and rules not only over life and death but the moon and bodies of water. Every woman in Mesoamerica was required, at least once in her life, to make a pilgrimage and place an offering on Ixchel's altar. Pilgrims departed the mainland from what is now Carmen Beach and Tulum, making the treacherous channel crossing in open canoes. Today, the remains of Ixchel's altar and ceremonial center can be seen at the San Gervasio ruins.
The island was first discovered by Spanish conquistadors in 1518 when Juan de Grijalva who was blown off course on his way back from Cuba. Grijalva's present to the island can still be viewed in the Church of San Miguel. He mentioned the island to Hernán Cortés, who arrived the next year in search of gold. Instead he found two shipwrecked Spaniards. Geronimo de Aguilar and Gonzales Guerrera had been living on the island with the Maya for over 15 years, first as slaves but finally as citizens of the community. Legend has it that de Aguilar was so happy to be rescued that he jumped from shore and started swimming towards the Cortès' ship when it was still 20 miles away. Guerrera chose to remain on the island with his Maya wife and family. Aguilar, bitter about his treatment by the Maya, helped the Conquistadors set up a military base on the island to wage war on them. Guerrera, on the other hand, died defending his adopted community. It is interesting to note that while de Aguilar is considered a hero in Spain, it is Guerrera who is revered in Mexico. His offspring, known as the Mestizo, are considered the founders of the Mexican race. By 1570 most of the Maya population were dead, murdered by the Conquistadors or killed off by disease. By 1600 Cozumel was abandoned.
By the early 17th Century pirates had discovered Cozumel. The dashing Henry Morgan used the island as a stopover during his raids around the Caribbean between 1658 to 1688. Another legend on the island has Jean Lafitte, who caroused the waters near Cozumel between 1814 and 1821, hiding from his pursuers in the safe harbors of the Passion Island. Both pirates were responsible for sinking a number of cargo ships, some of which can still be seen in the briny depths just off the northern shore close to Molas Point Lighthouse (northern lighthouse). Cozumel remained uninhabited until 1847, when 20 families fleeing the Spanish backlash over the Maya rebellion during the War of the Castes settled on the island and founded El Cedral. Many of their descendants are still living on the island. Cozumel soon settled into a forgotten island community.
In the late 19th Century a new candy put Cozumel back on the map. In 1880, a Mexican general, Antonio Lopez de Santa, imported a ton of chicle to the States after noticing the natives of Mexico and Central America chewing this gummy sap from the zapote tree. He gave it to Thomas Adams who tried to create rubber with it but instead came up with chewing gum. When Frank and Henry Fleer coated their gum with sugar and called it "Chiclets," chewing gum became the most popular candy in America and the demand for chicle reached an all time high. Men called chicleros were hired to find the zapote trees and process the sap into gum that was shipped to chewing gum factories in New York. Cozumel again became an important port, with ships stopping to pick up the chicle gathered from all over Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula, Guatemala, Belize and Costa Rica.
When the Chicleros began clearing Cozumel's jungle, they discovered long forgotten ruins. Soon archaeologists began visiting the island to document the new discoveries. When the market for chicle crashed due to the invention of the airplane and synthetic chewing gum, Cozumel went back to being an almost deserted island. Its only export became copra - the dried kernels of coconuts that contain coconut oil. More on Cozumel's trade and shipping history can be seen at the navigational museum in the Celarain Point Lighthouse.
During World War II, the American military landed on the island and set up a submarine base and airfield. Unfortunately, in the process they dismantled most of the Maya ruins without realizing what they were destroying. In the 1950s Cozumel became a resort town for wealthy Yucatecans who came to the island to fish, sunbathe and escape the heat. A display in the Cozumel Island Museum outlines the history of the founding families and the very first luxury hotels.
In 1961, Jacques Costeau did a dive along the reefs and came away so impressed with what he saw that he introduced Cozumel to the world on his popular television show. In 1974, when Cancun was being built and Quintana Roo was finally a state of Mexico, rather than a territory, Cozumel became a popular dive destination. And after that — as they say — the rest is history.
As one of the world's premier vacation destinations, Cozumel offers visitors a variety of things to see and do. In addition to a vibrant nightlife, visitors can entertain themselves by shopping, dining, playing mini-golf, visiting ruins, sunbathing, surfing, bird watching, fishing, horseback riding and, of course, scuba diving and snorkeling.
Nightlife
Most of Cozumel's nightlife is in its only city, San Miguel. There is no nightlife on the east coast since the few restaurants there close at dusk. Downtown bars open until the wee hours include the Hard Rock Cafe with its great music and bar along with Carlos 'n Charlie's and Fat Tuesdays. Both open-air bars are known for their loud, party atmosphere. Cactus Bar and Restaurant is a recent additon and has quickly become a popular spot to check out the party with its large dance floor and live music. Smoke Cuban cigars while listening to hot jazz at The Havana Club. Enjoy the Sunday Fiesta at Plaza Central, a live open-air concert with Mexican or Caribbean song and dance. The island's oldest disco Neptune Dance Club is opened on the weekends and is quite popular with the locals as well. The laid'back Mariac Hi Bar and the Stadium Sports Bar are both excellent places to people watch or to become aware of the latest sports scores. For those with a more cultivated sense of culture can go to the posh Arrecifeco and listen to live classical guitar.
The Casa de la Cultura offers local programs of music, dance, theatre and art. Every Thursday evening at the Feria Mexicana there's a folkloric dance performance. If you are lucky enough to be on the island during Carnaval (mid-February to March), you are in for an explosion of music, dance, parades and parties that fill the streets.
The largest movie theatre on the island is now the Cinepolis Complex, just minutes away from downtown San Miguel. It shows the latest Hollywood blockbusters with Spanish sub-titles. Two other, older theatres named Cine Cozumel and Cinel Cecillo Borge, also show English movies.
Shopping
Shoppers can get easily get their fix at a variety of stores selling Mexican handicraft art, souvenirs, clothing, diamonds and gold or silver jewelry. There are plenty of bargains to be found at the open-air markets just off the square. Both Viva Mexico and Los Cinco Soles are popular souvenir stops, especially with the cruise ship crowd. Cozumel is famous for its jewelry stores. Among the most visited are Diamonds International and Rachat and Romero, which offer excellent choices in diamonds, gold and silver jewelry. Because Cozumel is a duty-free shopping zone there are some great bargains to be found on luxury items.
Outdoor Fun
With 285 days of sunshine a year, Cozumel offers endless hours of fun in the sun. There is something for everyone to enjoy on the island.
The Atlantis Submarines adventure is an amazing exploration of the reef, but is very expensive. A more reasonable alternative is a trip aboard the glass-bottomed Principe. Both Natural Adventures and Rancho Buenavista offer horseback riding through the jungle. Tours that explore the island's northern end on ATVs (all-terrain vehicles) can be arranged with Wild Tours or Tarzan Tours.
Deep-sea fishing is also a popular activity. Marathon Deep Sea Fishing will give you a chance to snag a blue marlin or swordfish.
Scuba divers will find plenty of underwater sites to explore. The most popular reefs are on the southwestern side of the island. Paradise Reef, Chan Kanaab Reef, Villa Blanca Wall, Santa Rosa Wall, Palancar Reef and Plane Wreck are just a sampling of what you can expect to find beneath the turquoise waters. There is no shortage of scuba diving companies and tours. There are also none that could be considered inexpensive. Aqua Safari, Caballito del Caribe and Eagle Ray Dive School are some of the more experienced companies on the island.
On the mainland, popular tourist attractions include the famous Mayan ruins of Tulum and Chichen Itza, the natural aquarium Xel-Ha and the 250 acre, eco-archaeological park Xcaret.
Two inexpensive attractions are the San Gervasio ruins and Parque Punta Sur. You will find the most expensive part is the transportation out there. Chankanaab Park is an excellent bargain since your entry fee includes an archaeological park, botanical garden, a museum, a free dolphin show and great snorkeling. A fun family evening can be had at Cozumel Mini-Golf, an 18-hole miniature golf course. For a more educational family experience visit Museo de la Isla de Cozumel, which has historical and natural exhibits about the island. For those on a budget, there is still plenty to do in Cozumel, provided you bring your own snorkel gear. You don't have to pay any entry fee to get onto the beaches since all beachfront is Federal Property with free access to everyone. Plaza las Glorias allows visitors to snorkel as long as they buy something at the bar. Corona Beach has few crowds but good snorkeling. For lots of action you can visit San Francisco Beach or Playa del Sol. You won't find as many swimmers along the eastern beaches due to much heavier surf and a strong undertow. Surfers like to gather at Punta Morena, where the waves are high and burgers are cheap. (Families should take their children to the west coast beaches where the surf is much calmer.) You can also hike along the northern road that starts where the Costera Este Highway ends. The beaches there are wild and beautiful and camping is permitted.
Windsurfing, kayaks and jet skis are available on most of the beaches. However, renting them turns free fun into expensive fun.
Walking Tours of Cozumel
There are three different areas to explore on Cozumel: town, beach and jungle. Town walks center on the plaza and local neighborhoods away from the water. Beach walks take you to either the West or East coast while jungle treks are usually done with an experienced guide.
The best time of day for walks is in the early morning or late afternoon. The mornings are still cool and uncrowded before the invasion of mainland day-trippers and shoppers from cruise ships. In the late afternoon, the trade winds cool things down, especially on the eastern side of the island, which gets the breeze first. Plan to be indoors at dusk, also known as "the mosquito hour." Evening strolls along the malecon (boardwalk) or around the Plaza Central are pleasant but are riskier on the side streets because of the dangerous combination of no sidewalks and many besotted motorists.
Most of the tourist stores stay open during the afternoon. Mexicans still take their biggest meal of the day between 1p and 4p, so expect things to slow down during these hours. Take your cue from the locals and get out of the afternoon sun. Things wake up again around 5p and stores stay open until 9p, dinner being the lightest meal of the day. There is some nightlife, but Cozumel is not a late-night resort. Dress is casual here, though most restaurants will frown upon short shorts, halters and bikini tops in the evening. Traditional Maya women wear huipiles, a loose white dress with colorful embroidery along the neck, while men favor loose white shirts called guayaberas with light linen slacks. Both are sold in souvenir shops.
Exploring the Town: San Miguel de Cozumel
With a little more than 6000 inhabitants and a street grid so logical that you can't get lost, the best way to see the city is to wander about with only the barest of itineraries. Take a stroll around Parque Benito Juarez in Plaza Central or through downtown, where one-way streets befuddle out-of-town drivers and local drivers treat pedestrians as moving traffic cones. Cafes in San Miguel open early and are pleasant places to sit and watch the town start its day. For a nice walk, head east along the Avenida Benito Juarez past the Iglesia de San Miguel, then turn south along Avenida 25 Sur and walk one block to the Town Market and local school. Head east along Calle Adolfo Rosada Salas to Avenida Pedro Joaquin Coldwell and the Baseball Stadium. Keep walking south to Avenida 11 Sur and then turn toward the waters to pass by the island's cemetery on the right and City Hall on the left. Back in town you can enjoy an excellent breakfast in Museo de la Isla de Cozumel.
Exploring the Beaches: Chankanaab Park and San Francisco Beach
Chankanaab Park is home to a freshwater lagoon connected to the ocean by a series of underground caves. The lagoon is now closed to swimmers but has a very nice beach and excellent snorkeling with tame fish, underwater statues, sunken cannons and ships. There are also botanical gardens and an archaeological park on-site, with reproductions of the most famous Mayan artifacts. For an extra charge you can swim with dolphins or watch sea lions perform. It is worth the USD7 admission. Though it is crowded at times, San Francisco Beach has two miles of great beach offering a nifty "there and back" hour-long hike with lots of diversions along the way. Enjoy aquatic activities—snorkeling, windsurfing or kayaking—or visit one of the palapa pitstops that serves barbecued shrimp and cold beer. Sunday is the best day to share the beach with locals, without the cruise ship and day-tripper crowds.
Exploring the Jungle: Parque Punta Sur and Punta Molas
Take a rental car or a cab — for a hefty fee some will drop off and return — to Parque Punta Sur. Located within the park are Laguna Columbia, a lagoon filled with wildlife, El Caracol, the conch-shaped Maya ruin and the Punta Celerain Lighthouse, now a navigational museum. There is excellent snorkeling just off the beaches when the surf is not too strong. The park rents out snorkel gear and kayaks. A superior hike can be found along the 15 miles of rutted sandy road that runs north to where the Costera Este Highway ends. Rental companies will void your insurance if you drive along this road, so it's best to either hike in or take a jungle tour with Wild Tours. Along the way you will see the ruin of Castillo Real . If you can find the right trail, the San Gervasio ruins are just inland. Other trails head back into the forests to hidden cenotes and unexplored ruins. For the hearty hiker there is also a two-day trail that takes you to the northwestern side of the island to Passion Island. If you stay on the road, it ends at Molas Point Lighthouse. The view here is spectacular and worth the hike.
Staying Safe
When heading out to the jungles, be sure to bring along bottled water and bug repellent (with at least 80% DEET). It is best to wear a wide-brimmed hat, long sleeve shirts and pants, and socks and shoes to minimize exposure to ticks and other biting bugs. Watch for dehydration. The early warnings are dizziness and irritability. Get out of the sun immediately if you start to experience symptoms. As tempting as they look, do not swim in the freshwater cenotes—they are home to hungry, fast crocodiles. Hiring a guide to explore the more untamed parts of the mangroves and forests is recommended. On the beach, be sure to wear a hat and plenty of sunscreen. If you are fair-skinned, stay out of the sun between the hours of 11a until 2p. Leave your valuables in the hotel safe or rent a beach locker.
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