The Eastern Desert - a vast, desolate area rimmed by the Red Sea Mountains to the east and the Nile Valley in the west - was once crisscrossed by ancient trade routes and dotted with settlements that played vital roles in the development of many of the region's greatest civilisations. Today the desert's rugged expanses are filled with fascinating footprints of this history, including rock inscriptions, ancient gold and mineral mines, wells and watchtowers, and religious shrines and buildings. Indeed, it is one of the highlights of any visit to the Red Sea Coast, and a world apart from the commercialised coastline.