Dalian, China

Dalian is one of those rare cities that has the look of a major metropolitan hub, but the mindset of an island resort. Its fringe of sea and mountains surrounds it with enough geographical awe to produce nine months' worth of programming for the Discovery Channel. Sunbathing, fishing, boating, hiking and camping are all within minutes from downtown. Urban fun abounds too, and includes world class museums, swanky nightclubs, and major festivals. Boredom, as visitors quickly learn, has no relevance in Dalian.

Festivals in Dalian are few in number but massive in scope. The Chinese New Year (fluctuates between January and February) rates as one of the area's biggest happenings. Streets get jammed with dragon dancers and the skies explode with fireworks. The Acacia Flower Festival (late May) is one long human applause to the joys of an imminent summer. The annual International Fashion Festival (September) attracts the world's top models, designers, musicians, and artists, transforming Dalian into a temporary Asian version of the French Riviera. Dalian even sponsors an International Beer Festival (July) that lasts about half a month. Most major events are held in Xinghai Square.

Dalian's wealth of beaches makes summer its main season of enticement. Tiger Beach, located just southeast of the city in the aptly named Tiger Beach Park along the shores of Laohutan Bay, is excessively popular. In addition to sand, it also offers dining, shopping, and access to China's largest aquarium. The beach at Fujiazhuang Park, the fourth largest beach in the area, is only five kilometers from downtown. Besides shore side fun, there is also hiking and golfing here. Golden Pebble Beach, another favorite, is spiced with a strange mix of weird rock formations. Xinghai Bathing Beach, the largest man-made beach in China, is massive in size and during the peak summer months holds a massive number of people.

City-escape options fan the surrounding mountains. The Jinzhou District's Daheishan Forest Park is celebrated as one of Mother Nature's more creative efforts. More than 500 plant species glut this national park's interior, creating an ultimate setting for hiking and camping. Within the park is Dalian's truly historic Xiangshui Temple, dating to the Tang Dynasty. Both White Cloud Mountain and Baiyu Hill feature the type of high mountain views that can cause calluses on the fingers from snapping so many pictures trying to capture the surrounding panoramic beauty. The Xianrendong National Natural Reserve ups the awe-factor to new levels with caves and wild rock formations.

More than 700 islands hem the coast, all rank high on the interest scale. Bird Island looms three miles offshore and is extremely popular with bird watchers. Hundreds of different winged species pause in its craggy cliffs during migratory season. Sanshan Island is an immensely popular summer destination. Tiny villages along its rocky coast are full of maritime charm and always busy with beach parties and festivals. And the Changshan Archipelago in the North Yellow Sea consists of 112 islands full of secluded coves and reefs. Beach bonfire parties are common summer happenings.

If the body is in need of muscle-soothing relaxation, numerous hot springs offer the perfect bubble balm, including the Anbo Hot Springs. Go for a day trip or stay at one of the many hostels, inns or resorts in Pulan.

The Lushun Exhibition Hall offers a nice indoor alternative. Revered by locals as a huge symbol of cultural pride, this hall is packed with more than 30,000 artifacts including ancient Chinese paintings, sculptures, and Buddhist figurines. The Vangxin Crocodile Garden specializes in crocodiles from around the world. More than 400 of these ancient beasts wade in a replicated Tropical Rain Forest, giving visitors rare up-close access. Xinghai Museum of Prehistoric Life has exhibits on the biological diversity of prehistoric China, a fascinating walk through of ancient history.

For something out of the ordinary, the appropriately named Feel Flying Zip Cord Jump offers heart-thumping bungee jumping. Or if it is soccer season, take in a Dalian Shide soccer game. Dalian prides itself as being known as China's "soccer city." The Shide won the national title six times in eight years and remains incredibly popular, so tickets to the games sell fast. If you cannot snare a ticket wander into Olympic Square and watch the game on large screen TV with hundreds of other soccer fans.

Summertime offers balmy evenings in Dalian. If you need a break from the beach, wander over to Tianjin Street near Changjiang Street to sample the festive atmosphere (and street food!) of the Tianjin night market.

Even though China's history goes back to 2200 BCE, Dalian's chronological record of events remains murky at best. The earliest mention of the area came in 108 BCE when Emperor Han Wudi of the Han Dynasty established a shipping line between the Liaodong Peninsula and Shandong Peninsula to the south. The next mention of Dalian came in 1371 CE when troops under the Tang Dynasty named the area "Lion Mouth" due to its relative inaccessibility. Over the next 500 years, little was recorded of Dalian. Most of China's military and cultural happenings occurred further into China proper and along her two main rivers, the Yellow and the Yangzte. Dalian, meanwhile, remained in dormant isolation as a slumbering fishing village. It was first internationally recognized in 1856 during China's Arrow War (Second Opium War) with Great Britain. An English gunboat guided by Captain William C. Arthur chugged into Lushun Harbor, just south of Dalian. He was so impressed he dubbed it Port Arthur. England's acknowledgment of the area awakened the ruling Manchu government to Dalian's military potential. In the subsequent years a series of forts were strategically garrisoned throughout the hills that surrounded Dalian Bay and Port Arthur. The Sino-Japanese War of 1894 ended in wretched defeat for China. Under the harsh terms of the resulting Shimonoseki Treaty, China was cuffed with stiff indemnities and forced to surrender Taiwan, the Pescadores Islands, and both Dalian and nearby Port Arthur to Japan. However, seven months later, Japan, under extreme international pressure from France, Germany, and Russia, reluctantly ceded Dalian and Port Arthur back to China.

Russia, meanwhile, was desperate for an ice-free port during winter and covertly brokered a deal with China. In exchange for helping pay off China's war indemnity, Russia was allowed to "rent" Dalian. From 1898 through 1904 Russia, much to Japan's vexation, occupied Dalian. It was during this stint that Dalian, or Dalny as the Russian's renamed it, was elevated from an anonymous fishing village into a major industrial center. Shipping, smelting, brewing, and timber industries mushroomed under Russian jurisdiction. The South Manchurian Railroad chugged into town along a single line of track, connecting Dalian to the Trans-Siberian Railway and providing broader inland demands for its bounty of resources. With blueprints from famous structures in Paris and a mayor eager to make a beautiful city, much of Dalian's unique architecture dates from this time. Prosperity snagged, however, on the thorns of battle. On February 8, 1904 Japan delivered a surprise attack on Dalian, setting off the 20 month Russo-Japanese War. By war's end, on September 5, 1905, Japan was on the victor's side of the Portsmouth Treaty, marking the first victory of Japan over a Western power and scandalizing Russia. The loss helped fan the flames of the ensuing Russian Revolution, while Japan's conquest upped its major power status and, once again, accorded it dominion over Liaodong Peninsula.

Japan occupied Dalian until 1945. During this time, it renamed the city Dairen, and followed Russia's lead by augmenting its vast industrialization potential. Following Japan's defeat in World War II, Dalian, under the terms of the Yalta Agreement, came under the joint control of both Russia and China. In 1950, it, was renamed, yet again, Luda City. In 1955, China was granted sole control over Dalian. Chairman Mao Zedong's policies focused on developing China's interior countryside, thus little attention was given to Dalian, setting off almost 30 years of stagnation but also sparing the city's unique structures from the excesses of the Cultural Revolution. After Mao's death in 1976, China policy focused on outreach and economic growth, thus Dalian received immediate government attention. The name Luda City was dropped in favor of Dalian, its original name. In 1984, it was one of China's 14 coastal cities declared open to foreign investors. Under this billowing exemption, Dalian thrived and rapidly emerged as northeast China's main industrialized port through the production of petroleum, chemicals, fertilizers, machinery, steel and iron. Yet, unlike most other industrial nests, Dalian also focused on building a strong tourism base. As part of a beautification program, the city began razing old buildings, repaving roads, and promoting its numerous beach resort communities. Fortunately, the rebuilding efforts were aimed at preserving Dalian's heritage, thus the colonial structures were spared "beautification". Today Dalian has 70 gardens, 24 beaches, 5 parks and numerous excellent hotels and restaurants. Its pervading cosmopolitan air has made Dalian now known as China's "Hong Kong of the North."