Gothenburg, Sweden

Gothenburg is a seaport. This was more obvious when the wharves were still operating, but the city still has the largest port in Sweden, receiving ships from near and far, and there are regular ferries going out to the archipelago. As a seaport located on the west coast, Gothenburg loves fish and seafood, something that is reflected in the number of seafood restaurants you will find here.

But Sweden's second largest city also has a lot of other food to offer –you will find food and drinks from almost the entire world, if you only look closely enough. If there is one obvious starting point in Gothenburg, it is Götaplatsen at Avenyn–"the most Swedish of all Swedish places" as someone is reputed to have remarked–where The City Theatre, The Art Museum and The Concert Hall flank the statue of the god of the sea, Poseidon. But looking at Gothenburg from a culinary point of view, there are some places worth mentioning before we get to Avenyn…

Lorensberg:

If you start at Korsvägen, opposite Svenska Mässan, you will find a small Italian gem (with no pizzas!) called av La Cucina Italiana, and if you turn the corner to Södra Vägen you will find the exclusive restaurant Linnéa. Further down on the same street, where Berzeliigatan crosses Korsvägen, is the mysterious Restaurang ?, where Swedish fare is mixed with international food (Bosnian for example) and where you can watch the chefs in action. Yet a bit further down is another pasta restaurant, Pasta +. There are also a lot of cafés selling those apparently universally popular lunch baguettes.

Avenyn:

If you return to Götaplatsen, with its view of the entire length of Avenyn, you will find an exclusive restaurant called Fond located next to The Art Museum. It has a big, rounded glass front facing towards Götaplatsen. Unless you want to miss one of the gems along this route, you have to make a detour to Arkivgatan, a short way down to the left after passing Restaurant/Brasserie Julien, to acquaint yourself with med Steak, the exclusive restaurant belonging to one of Sweden's top chefs, Leif Mannerström. The fare to pick here is one of the excellent meat dishes. A bit further away, at Götabergsgatan, you will find another gem, 28+. Just as the name implies they specialize in cheese, but that is not all they have on offer. Good food does not come cheap here, but you will definitely leave 28+ satisfied. If you return to Avenyn, you will come upon Babar, a cosy place with rustic exteriors and large windows on the second level, from which you have good view of Avenyn. Evas Paley, a bit of a classic in Gothenburg, is located in the same building.

If you cross Avenyn, you may enjoy a bit of atmosphere from 'Down Under' at Dancin' Dingo on Kristinelundsgatan. From here, you can continue to Restaurang Räkan on Lorensbergsgatan, where you get your prawns delivered by remote-controlled fishing boat. They serve the prawn and crayfish stews that are so typical for the West Coast. Continue down the street and you end up at Harrys, a place for good (and occasionally inexpensive) food and entertainment by stand-up comedians. On the opposite side of the street, you will find Kometen, a hang-out for artists. Return to Avenyn once again and you will come upon Avenyn 10 (formerly Harley's) and further down is the venerable, French-inspired Brasserie Lipp with its large glass front and a nice outdoor section out front. They're also neighbours with the nightclub Bubbles. Not far from there, you will find English joviality and football (and some other sports) on the TV screens at The Rose and Crown. Across the street is Nivå, which is also very popular, both when it comes to eating and drinking and to nightlife.

If you want to make an evening of it, you may want to go to Nya Allén and Trädgår'n. They offer lots of great food and a very popular nightclub in a large modern building located next to the enclosed park Trädgårdsföreningen. If you continue towards Kungsportsplatsen, you have to cross the bridge to find a place to eat. The first place you come to is Restaurant Berså, with a trendy atmosphere catering to the in-crowd. Around the corner, you will find some traditional restaurants offering choice fare, including some which specialise in seafood. If you turn yet another corner, you will find yourself at the pasta restaurant Pasta Fresca Aldardo, where you can eat your pasta standing at the counter, or take advantage of their take-out service. If you look out the window, you will see Saluhallen, an indoor market with not only a plethora of meat, vegetables, bread, fruit and spices, but also a number of restaurants which provide a good and fairly inexpensive alternative for lunch. Next to Saluhallen, there is a restaurant called Esther, a place where designers, PR-people and other city folk meet and mingle. If you cross the street, you arrive at Kungsportsplatsen, with its meeting place by the statue Kopparmärra and, a bit further down, you will see Gamle Port, a restaurant, pub and nightclub that has been around for ages and renews its popularity at regular intervals. They offer a good, solid lunch menu, and a bit more sophisticated fare for dinner. This whole neighborhood boasts many restaurants and a good variety of fare–Japanese, Spanish, Swedish, Chinese, Thai, etc.

On Södra Hamngatan there's another great place for sports fans. O'Learys has adopted the "standard American" concept. Dubliners, across the street, has a similar concept but the atmosphere here is more Irish/British than American. If you continue down Hamngatan you will eventually arrive at Brunnsparken, where you find the bar Palace, a real classic. Further down towards the harbour, there are a number of small places, like Bommen and the exotic Restaurang Simba, serving African and Caribbean cuisine. The opera house lies across the street, and they have a good restaurant as well.

Vasastaden:

If you are at the intersection of Avenyn and Vasagatan and walk up Vasagatan (which some people call "Campus Street" because of all the thousands of students that rush through Vasastaden every day searching for books, lectures or food) there are many places to discover. Cafés dominate the scene in this area, but there are quite a few restaurants as well. Most of these are situated on side streets like Victoriagatan, where you find, among other places, Klara, something of a classic on the Gothenburg pub scene, and Vasastaden, which has a good menu with a wide variety of dishes. There are a few places at Vasaplatsen, among them Smaka, which serves typical Swedish staple fare. Near Vasaplatsen, on Vasagatan, is Oji, which serves a mixture of "Scandinavian spartan functionalistic" and "Asian ascetic" food. Sushi is the main feature on the menu, but there are many interesting courses, both for lunch and for dinner. This is also a good place for watching "Campus Street", having large windows facing the street. Further down Vasagatan, near Handelshögskolan, you find Bazar, a place that has expanded from being a café to being a full-scale restaurant serving Turkish specialties. And, as mentioned earlier, there are many more places to discover on the side streets.

Haga:

This district has a very distinct character, being full of small shops, cafés and having very little traffic–this makes it an oasis in the city. Haga is situated between Avenyn and Vasastaden on one side, and Järntorget and Linnéstaden on the other. This is a section of the city which has many nice, small places, like cosy Sjöbaren at Haga Nygata with its wonderfully atmospheric back yard area, and further down the same street you will find Hemma hos. You are now at the very heart of the Haga district, so take some time to absorb and enjoy the special atmosphere of Gothenburg's own Greenwich Village. At the back of the same block lies the vegetarian restaurant Solrosen, which is a favourite among students with their standard vegetarian menu. Their lasagna is very popular.

Linnégatan/Linnéstaden:

To the east, Haga ends at Järntorget and Linnégatan. Close to Järntorget, there are many so-called exotic restaurants, many of them Asian. This could be called Gothenburg's Soho, with a full range of prices and standards. The top of that range is represented by the expensive and critically acclaimed Le Village, for instance, where you can buy not only a meal but also furniture. Plantagegatan is home to the perfect place for both fish 'n' chips fans and whiskey connoisseurs—the well-known British restaurant Old Beefeater Inn. Further up, on Linnégatan, you will find Restaurang + housed in a classical yellow building from the turn of the last century with a great view of the street. If you follow Prinsgatan from here, you will come to Gothenburg's most famous pizzeria, the French (!) Bistro Cyrano. You may have to wait for a while at the bar before you get a table, but it is worth it when your meal arrives.

Along Linnégatan–which may be called Gothenburg's second city parade, and perhaps a bit more mature and cultivated than Avenyn–there is a multitude of restaurants. There is an almost infinite selection, and you are sure to find a favourite of your own. Knossos is a popular Greek restaurant with an outdoor section in the summer. Further up are Istället, well-known to most locals, and Bitter. The side streets also have their share of large and small, good and not so good, restaurants and small eateries. Hos Pelle at Djupedalsgatan has received awards both for the management's commitment to environmental preservation and for the exclusive menu (lots of fish and seafood). 12-52 at the corner of Majorsgatan/Linnégatan plays in the highest division when it comes to restaurants in Gothenburg, and Karlsons Garage is a rustic meeting point that has specialised in simple but hearty fare. Another small gem is the Greek Den Lilla Tavernan, located on Olivedalsgatan, up towards Slottsskogen. It is extremely popular, in spite of crowds and long waits for a table, and you will quickly understand why once you have tried it.

These are but highlights of the restaurant scene in Gothenburg, so there are still many major restaurants and bars which have not been mentioned in more detail. To truly do culinary Gothenburg justice, you would also need to visit Bryggeriet at Avenyn, Venue, Excet, Etc, all the restaurants in the area around Kungsgatan and up towards Kungshöjd, or those further away from the city centre—nice places with a lot of character and local colour. And we mustn't forget about Sjömagasinet with its star in Guide Rouge, or Fiskekrogen at Lilla Torget with its delicacies from the sea. They are all worth exploring. Try them all, at least once, if you are visiting this lovely maritime city by Kattegatt and Nordsjön.

If you travel to Gothenburg by plane, you arrive at Landvetter airport, which is the obvious location for the Landvetter Airport Hotel. But you will probably prefer to lodge in the actual city. The easiest way to reach the city is by cab, and the cheapest way is by the airport bus. The bus will take you first to the area around Korsvägen and Svenska Mässan, which hosts fairs and exhibitions all year round. This area is also home to the amusement park Liseberg, and it will soon boast The World Culture Museum and a Science Centre as well. There are several hotels to choose from in the area: the expensive and striking Gothia Towers, the less expensive Quality Panorama Hotel and the budget alternatives Nice Bed & Breakfast and Göteborgs Vandrarhem.

The bus will then take you to Avenyn, which is one of Gothenburg's main streets and a must for all visitors. Along Avenyn, you will find The Art Museum, The Concert Hall, The City Theatre and a large number of bars and clubs. The airport bus stops right outside of Radisson SAS Park Avenue Hotel, which is large and expensive, and probably the hotel in Gothenburg where you will stand the biggest chance of spotting celebrities. The building next to it is Scandic Hotel Rubinen. A few streets down from Avenyn, you will find Hotel Liseberg Heden, with somewhat lower prices and more peaceful surroundings. There are also two budget hotels in the area: Avenyn Turist and City Hotel.

The bus trip continues down Avenyn, crosses the old city moat, and then the bus comes to a stop at Kungsportsplatsen. This is the liveliest shopping area in Gothenburg, and you can find a large number of small and medium-sized shops along Kungsgatan and Fredsgatan. There are also many hotels here. They may sometimes look a bit anonymous from the outside, but the genuine city environment can't be beat. Hotel Vanilj is a personable hotel which is actually better known for its café, Kafé Vanilj. Other hotels in this area include Hotel Flora and the oldest hotel in Gothenburg, Hotel Royal. Elite Plaza Hotel is a new, luxurious hotel located opposite the dome.

The final destination of the Airport bus is Nils Ericssonsterminalen, which has been added onto the Central Station. So, this is where you find yourself when you arrive by train. Drottningtorget, on the other side of the station, is a tram junction and many buses leave from here as well. Next to the square is Nordstans shopping centre with a lot of shops, but it might not be the nicest area for a walk. Instead, Fredsgatan and Kungsgatan to the south may be better options. Two of the classiest, and most expensive, hotels of Gothenburg are situated opposite eachother at the square in front of the station: Hotel Eggers and Radisson SAS Scandinavia Hotel. But no one will know that second name, ask for old Sheraton instead. Hotel Robinson is less expensive and situated a few hundred metres towards the centre, and so is Hotel Opera. If you go down to the river, you will come upon Barken Viking, an old boat which houses a hotel and conference facilities.

If you arrive by ferry you will find yourself in Majorna, to the west. This part of town feels very genuine and attractive with its old wooden buildings and green courtyards. The easiest way to get into the city centre from here if you do not have a car is by tram, but the bus is always a possibility as well. If you walk, it will take you about half an hour. There are not as many hotels here as in the city centre, but a good alternative is Novotel, just by the river, which has a good view of the arriving and departing ships. On the way into town, you will find two hostels: STF Stigbergsliden, och Slottsskogens Vandrarhem.

The trams towards the city will take you through Vasastaden, a part of the city that mainly consists of old houses from the beginning of the last century. This area has a lot of good cafés and bars, and it may be the best area if you are looking for a good bar rather than a disco. There are also many small shops around, and a lot of students. Plus a number of hotels, like exempel Hotel Vasa, the small and friendly familjära Hotel Lilton, and Hotel Excelsior.

But there are places to stay outside of the town as well, and you can frequently find inexpensive, personable and more interesting places if you just leave the city centre. On the charming island of Brännö stands ligger Pensionat Bagge, which hosts a ballad festival in the summer. On Marstrand, an island up north, you will find Hotel Nautic. In the beautiful wooded areas east of the city there is a campground called Delsjöns Camping, and south of the city you can stay at the budget hotel Formule 1.