Littered with summer clam shacks, ramshackle motels, fried dough stands and noisy arcades full of pudgy children, Hampton Beach isn't the classiest stretch of New England coastline. It does, however, boast New Hampshire's only sandy beach, a wide, inviting stretch of shore that gives pasty sun-seekers their fix. North of Hampton Beach, white-trash paradise peters into the rolling greenswards and serpentine private drives of Rye, whose oceanfront mansions and sprawling 'summer cottages' show a radically different side of the coastline.