Istanbul is such a diverse city that it's almost impossible to split it up into definable districts. The only real distinction that can be made is between the European and Asian sides, which are separated by the Bosphorus Strait. Stretching from the Black Sea, straddling across the Bosphorus, touching the Sea of Marmara, Istanbul, with an estimated population of between 10-13 million, has become a city of unlimited scope.
Sultanahmet
Most people who come to Istanbul land feet first in Sultanahmet. This peninsula (known as Sarayburnu) juts out into the Bosphorus, the Golden Horn and the Sea of Marmara. Rich in history, it's a natural magnet to millions of tourists every year. The home of
Eminönü
Situated right on the waterfront on the Golden Horn, Eminönü is the end of the tramline. It is generally buzzing with activity during the day, with street peddlers selling you things you never even knew you wanted. The vast
Beyoglu / Taksim
A veritable symphony of Occident and Orient, Beyoglu is the pulsating heartbeat of Istanbul's day and nightlife.
Tünel
This is undoubtedly Istanbul's Bohemian Quarter, which not so long ago was perceived as a bad part of town, with its dark deserted streets and creepy abandoned buildings. However, the area has undergone tremendous development in recent years. Tiny cafes, live music venues, and open-air restaurants and bars now quietly coexist with art galleries, antique bookshops and music stores.
Karaköy
Around the first century BC, there was a tiny village situated on the mini peninsula of the Golden Horn where the modern suburb of Karaköy stands today. These days, Karaköy is a bustling port with a lively fish market, a hectic ferry terminal and a shady nightlife; an intriguing landscape at the mouth of the Golden Horn. Scores of locals fish from the Galata Bridge and an array of vendors peddle all kinds of goods along the sidewalks. A vast underground marketplace where you can buy electrical appliances and guns, among other things, provides not-so-safe passage under the busy road to the entrance of Tünel. Up the hill is Bankalar Caddesi, an historical area filled with banks, art galleries and do-it-yourself stores. All visiting international cruise ships dock in Karaköy.
Galata
The Genoese-built
Golden Horn
The most interesting part of the Golden Horn district comprises of the stretch of land between Eminönü and Ayvansaray, up as far as Eyüp. The Selimiye Mosque, the Fethiye Mosque and St. Steven's Church grace the shoreline while the Kariye Müzesi (Chora Church) and Mihrimah Mosque are further inland. The old city walls start at Ayvansaray and snake overland to Yedikapi.
Besiktas and Ortaköy
Besiktas -- which is actually dismally devoid of places to help you paint the town red -- is at the center of the three-way fork that leads up the hill to Levent. Ortaköy, on the other hand, is a bustling suburb on the waterfront. Bubbling over with cafés, bars, restaurants and tea houses, this area is a popular weekend hangout for locals. Ortaköy's back streets are buzzing with handicraft stalls filled with trinkets and souvenirs on summer weekends. This part of town is renowned for its mosque, church and synagogue within close quarters of one another. The Bosphorus Bridge spans the waterway overhead.
Bosphorus: Arnavutköy to Sariyer
The Bosphorus shore on the European side is lined with Ottoman-style mansions, high society hangouts and fish restaurants. There is only one main road and it follows the shoreline all the way to Zekariyeköy, a popular weekend getaway for the citybound.
Sea of Marmara Coast: Kumkapi to Yediküle
Kumkapi is a distinctly touristy area filled with over-priced fish restaurants and not much else besides views of the sea. The coast road heads out toward the airport past the old city walls and Yediküle Fortress.
Asian Side & Bosphorus: Kadiköy to Anadolu Hisari
Kadiköy is a quieter version of Beyoglu with a more subdued atmosphere. The tiny cobbled lanes are filled with restaurants, cafés, bars, cinemas and shops, but most importantly, residents! The Asian side of town is where most Istanbulites live; you'll have a harder time with no Turkish language skills here, but it's worth it to pop over on the ferry and experience a more relaxed way of life. The coast road snakes past Üsküdar, a pretty suburb with plenty of fine examples of Mimar Sinan's work, including the
Princes Islands
There are four islands in the Sea of Marmara that attract crowds escaping the summer heat: Büyükada, Heybeliada, Kinaliada and Burgazada. Ferries leave from Sirkeci, Kadiköy and Bostanci regularly. There are no cars on the islands -- the transport here is limited to horse-drawn carriages. Each island offers plenty of places to eat and sleep, and there are Greek monasteries atop the hills of Büyükada and Heybeliada.
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The best way to see most of Istanbul is on foot. What seems to be a somewhat formidable task is simplified by breaking each walk down into smaller sections of the city. The most touristy but also historical part of town is the old city, Sultanahmet,where at every turn you are greeted with a museum or a mosque. The European and Asian sides of the Bosphorus shore are rich in historical treasures just waiting to be discovered. Old Pera, or Beyoglu, deserves its own separate tour. The Bosphorus is well worth exploring by boat, as are the Princes Islands. There are also several places which can be visited on day trips out of town.
Iconic Istanbul in Sultanahmet
The old city of Sultanahmet is one of the world's most fascinating open-air museums. At the edge of the park between the magnificent Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia) and the Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmet Mosque), the Baths of Lady Hürrem (a twin hamam-turned-carpet shop) preside over the surrounding areas. To see how the Pashas and Sultans of Ottoman days dressed, stop in at the Bazaar Ali Baba, and for a taste of Istanbul's mercantile culture of days gone by, head down the hill from Sultanahmet Square toward Gülhane, the Egyptian Spice Bazaar and the Yeni Camii (New Mosque) stand on Eminönü Square, overlooking the Golden Horn and the ferry terminals. Of course, after a long day of sightseeing in this historic district, a meal at a traditional Turkish restaurant such as Altin Kupa is a much needed restorative to prepare for a night on the town.
Palace of the Sultans
Close to Ayasofya by the waters of the Bosporus, you'll find Topkapi Palace. Topkapi, built by order of the Sultan who defeated the Byzantines and set the stage for centuries of Ottoman rule, is a truly awe-inspiring piece of history. With its nearly endless galleries of artifacts, historic chambers, halls, kitchens and harems, its almost worth a trip for itself! Make sure to come early so you can sign up for special tours and see what you want to see- Topkapi is too large to do all at once. After strolling the palace grounds, check out the nearby Yerebatan Sarayi (Yerebatan Basilica Cistern) -- an ancient Roman aqueduct -- it's on the street to the left, and the upside-down head of Medusa in this watery museum is not to be missed. The 300-year-old Cagaloglu Hamam is also down this street, and is perfect for a post-tour soak to wash away the stresses of being on your feet all day. Afterwards, have a bite at the unabashedly touristy Cennet, or if you prefer something a bit more upscale, the excellent Amedros restaurant.
Istanbul Through the Ages
Behind Ayasofya is Sogukçesme Sokak -- a tiny cobbled alley lined with Ottoman-style townhouses, and the Archaeology Museum is behind it on Osman Hamdi Yokusu. The busy Arasta Bazaar and the fascinating Mosaic Museum can be found right behind the Blue Mosque. The At Meydani (Hippodrome) opposite the mosque welcomes guests with its Egyptian Obelisk and Serpentine Column. Nearby are Kaiser Wilhelm's Fountain and Ibrahim Pasa Sarayi (Ibrahim Pasa Palace). The Tourist Information Office is here too. As you head down Divan Yolu towards Beyazit, you will see the historical Çemberlitas Hamam beckoning you in for a good scrub. The Çemberlitas ("Burnt Column") is in the square outside the hamam. Hidden behind the walls of the Atik Ali Pasa Medresesi are a number of Ottoman cemeteries and tombs within, as well as secluded tea gardens that serve sweet tea and a choice of flavored tobaccos for your nargile (water pipe or hookah). The labyrinthine Grand Bazaar, with its 4,000 shops, needs almost a whole day dedicated to it. The Nuruosmaniye Mosque is nearby. Picturesque Istanbul University is just around the corner, as is the Calligraphy Museum and the bustling Russian Bazaar. One of the most beautiful mosques in the world, the Süleymaniye Mosque, presides over the area from the top of the hill. Afterward, a meal at Rami, a restaurant with a gallery feel and a spectacular view of the old city, is just the thing to cap off a truly Turkish experience.
Beyoglu to Karaköy
Istanbul's famous Grand Rue de Pera has long since gone. In its place is Istiklal Cadessi, the main pedestrian thoroughfare in Beyoglu. Majestic Ottoman buildings line the street, bumping up against garish modern architecture in a wild dance manifesting the struggle between the decadent and the sublime. Taksim Square features the Monument to the Republic, and nearby is the tourist information office. The magnificent Greek Orthodox Aya Triade Church and the French Consulate are also close at hand. The historical Alkazar and Emek Cinemas hum with film lovers of all ages. This is also home to the neoclassical Cite de Rumeli, the Circle d'Orient, Anadolu Han, and the Cite d'Alep. The Surp Asdvadzadzin (an Armenian church) is on Sakiz Agaci Sokak. Further down the street are Atlas Pasaji and Beyoglu Pasaji, Çiçek Pasaji in the Cite de Pera and the Fish Market. Riotous Nevizade Sokak is here too. The American and British Consulate buildings are on Mesrutiyet Caddesi and the elegant Russian and Swedish consulates are on Istiklal, past the cavernous Church of Saint Anthony. The famous Pera Palas Hotel is behind Asmalimescit. The Tünel is the oldest metro in continental Europe, and the red Taksim tram is the only one of its kind still running. The Hall of Whirling Dervishes, Galata Mevlevihanesi is down Galip Dede Street toward Galata Tower. Much of the former glory of the little village of Karaköy has been lost, although there are still a few old bank buildings along Bankalar Caddesi. Also in the area are Kirkor Lusavoriç (the Church of St Gregory the Illuminator), Kiliç Ali Pasa Mosque and Hamam, and the Mimar Sinan University Culture and Arts Center. The dock is also home to several fish restaurants like the popular Degüstasyon and the ferry wharves.
Outside the City
Classic Journeys offers a guided tour of Istanbul and the Turquoise Coast. Private Turkey Tours offers a variety of tour packages, including cruises to Istanbul, Ephesus, Gallipoli, Bodrum and Cappadocia.
Vegetarian
A new trend in Turkey, vegetarianism has had a slow beginning but there has been some progress. Nuh'un Ambari, Nature and Peace, Badehane, and Zencefil in Beyoglu are just a few of the hot spots for herbivores on the European side. Also try Hercai whilst in Kadiköy on the Asian side.
Street Food
Europeans and Asians alike seem to love to feast on the streets, buying delicious snacks from vendors wheeling carts. Istanbul is no different: a midnight snack could include stuffed mussels (midye dolma), a fried mussel sandwich, meatballs made with barley (icli köfte), or even raw meat (cig köfte). Gözleme (filled pancake) is a favorite lunch-time snack, along with baked potatoes filled with anything you want (kumpir), and even plain old chicken and rice. Breakfast could consist of simit (bread rings with sesame seeds), pogaca (cheese- or potato-filled pastry), catal (a cracker-like snack), or a variety of sweets dripping with syrup, honey, and/or rosewater.
Drinking
A nasty side effect of the rapidly changing cityscape is that drinking dens come and go with frustrating frequency, and the bar you were at last night may not be there tomorrow; but fear not, as it's not hard to find a new one!
Sultanahmet
More famous for its historical sites and pushy salesmen, Sultanahmet has a few good cafes where you can sit and write your postcards home. Spend some time at the Rumeli Café for excellent people-watching. Try Cheers for cheap beer or Sultan Pub for terrace seating.
Beyoglu
The cafe-bar scene changes faster than most people can blink. "Here today, gone tomorrow" seems to be the motto. However, there are a few hangers-on like Dulcinea, Madrid, Pia, Kaktüs Cafe, and Kemanci. The distinction between "café" and "bar" has become very blurred recently and most places do a combination of both. Cafés include Yagmur Cybercafé, Lounge, Café Frappé, Kafe Cute, (a popular gay hangout), and 35mm (located in the Fitas Cinema complex). The best nightclubs -- all thumping out techno until the wee hours -- are Switch, Milk, Taxim She, and Orange. Live music venues Roxy and Babylon are the hottest hits in town at the moment. Bar Bahçe and Neo are excellent gay bars, while the best gay clubs are Prive and Club 14. Some of the finest wine bars in the world have popped up recently: check out Pano Wine Bar, Sarabi Wine Bar, Vareli, or Sappho.
Kadiköy
Less manic than Beyoglu, Kadiköy has its own style of nightlife. Rock bar Karga fills up fast with students, and the Belfast Pub and Shaft do live music. If it's coffee you're after, Café Antre is mellow and female-friendly and Mosquito Café is fun.
Other Notable Watering Holes
The Wall in Ortaköy fills fast with leather-clad rockers and boppers, and another great option is the up-market Coco Pazzo in Arnavutköy.
Whether you feel like staying in an Ottoman palace, a family home, a restored mansion, a traditional wooden house, a converted prison or a youth hostel, you will certainly find all of the above in Istanbul. Following a recent boom in tourism, Istanbul's hotels and guesthouses now cater to every taste as well as all budgets. There are many hotels catering to tourists clustered around the Sultanahmet area but business people tend to prefer the more centrally-located Taksim, or they stick to hotels around Atatürk Airport. There are hundreds of hotels all throughout the city, ranging from the lowliest budget hostels offering the mere basics to luxury five-star hotels with superb facilities.
Breakfast and 18% KDV (value-added tax) are often included in the price of a room but it's always wise to check. Tipping hotel staff is very common -- a few lira in the hands of the help ensures high quality service.
Sultanahmet
Sultanahmet is overwhelming and too touristy in parts, but in other parts, it overflows with history and charm. The Four Seasons Hotel (located in an old prison) is the top choice in the area -- everyone knows this hotel, which is renowned for its service and facilities. Yesil Ev is a restored Ottoman mansion with a lush garden and oodles of charm. The Empress Zoe offers its guests spectacular views of the Bosphorus from the rooftop terrace and a 15th Century Turkish bath is located in the basement. The family-run Kybele Hotel exudes eclectic eccentricity, with thousands of colored-glass lamps hanging from the ceiling. The Hotel Valide Sultan Konagi offers modern facilities, Ottoman-style, while the Ayasofya Pansiyonlari are a string of replica Ottoman mansions lining a quaint cobbled street. The Hotel St Sophia is opposite Yerebatan Sarayi (Yerebatan Basilica Cistern), behind Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia) in the heart of the old city. The Turkoman Hotel overlooks the At Meydani (Hippodrome) and the Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmet Mosque). The centrally-located Side Hotel & Pension is popular with low-budget travelers and backpackers.
Eminönü
Eminönü, at the mouth of the Golden Horn, is a bustling market area. Most hotels here are conveniently located near the Sirkeci Train Station. The Hotel Yasmak Sultan is a short walk from Sultanahmet Square, the Grand Bazaar and the Galata Bridge. The Orient Express Hotel offers an alternative location near the old city, with excellent views of the Golden Horn. The Romance Hotel is a newer addition to the gaggle of hotels with excellent modern facilities.
Beyoglu
Istanbul's center for culture and arts, Beyoglu has become a busy hub for business people and toursits alike. Here, you'll find the Hilton, the InterContinental Ceylon, the Hyatt Regency (with its beautiful swimming pool) and one of the most famous hotels in Istanbul, the Marmara Istanbul. The Marmara Pera boasts an impressive gym with incredible views. The Hotel Euro Plaza (located near the British Consulate) designed their modern rooms with business people in mind. The Hotel Yenisehir Palas is just a short walk away from a string of restaurants, cafes, bars and nightlife. The Dilson Hotel -- with dedicated staff and modern facilities -- is just a few steps away from the metro and all public transport. The charming terrace bar at the Büyük Londra Hotel is also worth visiting for a drink.
Tünel
This developing Bohemian quarter plays host to artists and intellectuals. The American Consulate is also in this area. Travelers from the Orient Express stayed at the Pera Palas Hotel, which once played host to both Atatürk and Agatha Christie. The elegant Richmond Hotel is superbly located on the main street and there is a wonderful cafe (Cafe Lebon) at street level. The four-star Mercure Hotel stands over the Tüyap Exhibition Centre (incidentally, probably the ugliest building in the city) nearby.
Golden Horn-Marmara Sea Coast
This is a sprawling suburban district spread out along the shore roads of each waterway and surrounding the old city walls. Out of the center, it's the preferred location for business people and tourists with time on their hands. Located in Topkapi -- between the old city and the airport -- the Barceló Eresin Topkapi Hotel is a favorite with business people. The Citadel offers guests magnificent views of the Marmara Sea, near the fish restaurants of Kumkapi. The Kariye Hotel in Edirnekapi is a restored 19th-century Ottoman mansion and the Asithane downstairs serves fine Ottoman cuisine.
Besiktas-Ortaköy
An area of combined business and pleasure, Besiktas is laid out on a hill while Ortaköy spreads itself along the shores of the Bosphorus and plays host to thousands of day-trippers and weekenders in the warm seasons. The most notable hotel in the area is the elegant Çiragan Sarayi (Çiragan Palace) -- the luxurious home of the Ottoman sultans -- with its spectacular outdoor pool. The Conrad Hotel, also with a quite luxurious pool is perfectly situated for business meetings and conferences and the Swissôtel atop the hill combines glorious views of the Bosphorus and the city with top-quality services and facilities.
Airport Area
For a quick getaway or those tedious middle-of-the-night flights, there are several excellent hotels situated near Atatürk International Airport (Atatürk Havalimani). Five minutes from the airport is the five-star Polat Renaissance Istanbul Hotel with its ultra-modern décor and views of the Marmara Sea. The luxurious Radisson and Cinar hotels are also in the same area. The Ataköy Tatil Köyü is situated on the coastal road near the Ataköy train station and caters to campers and caravans.
Asian Side and Bosphorus
The Asian side of Istanbul has a less manic atmosphere than the European side. While tourists prefer to stay in the historical areas, business people prefer convenience -- much of Istanbul's business happens over here. The Harem Hotel overlooks the Bosphorus and caters to young families with its reliable childcare services. The Bosphorus Pasha in Beylerbeyi is similar to an English stately home while the Kent is a small, budget hotel located a short walk from the heart of the cobbled streets of Kadiköy and the ferry terminals.
Princes Islands
Set in the Marmara Sea, the islands attract citysiders escaping metropolitan madness at weekends. During the week, things are much quieter and discounted hotel rates make a mid-week cruise to paradise even more attractive. Try the Merit Halki Palace on Heybeliada for unparalleled views of the surrounding sea and the city in the distance. The Splendid Palace offers superb facilities on the waterfront at Büyükada.
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