Jerusalem, Israel

Joseph and Mary may have had a hard time finding accommodation in neighboring Bethlehem, but with more than 8000 hotel rooms to choose from, Jerusalem has plenty of accommodations today and more to offer than any other city in Israel.

In a recent survey, Jerusalem was ranked the world's sixth most expensive city for business travelers to stay in. A room in the presidential suite in the historic King David Hotel may cost hundreds of dollars per night, but, at the other end of the scale, it is only ILS20 to sleep on a mattress on a rooftop hostel in the Old City.

Old City

On the subject of budget travel, for those on a shoestring, the Old City is the place. Not only are dorm beds cheap, but you get the chance to linger a while in this fascinating place and soak up its history and bustle.

You could stay in Casa Nova, Custodia di Terra Santa, a 100 year-old Franciscan pilgrim's hospice in the Old City. It is worth noting that there will be a curfew in lodgings for pilgrims, and unmarried couples may not be able to room together. Religious Jewish travelers will be spoiled for choice as most of the major hotels are both Kosher and Shabbat observant, and some, like the King Solomon, are Glatt Kosher. Jewish travelers who want to explore their roots can stay for free in St. Mark's Heritage House, a dorm in the Jewish Quarter of the Old City that provides seminars and meals in the homes of observant families to participants.

Hostels, such as the Tabasco Tea Rooms, are in the winding alleys of the souk. Guests in the Lutheran Hospice will sleep in a vaulted Crusader cellar, and the view from the roof of the Petra Hotel & Hostel is so awe-inspiring that non-guests pay to climb the rickety stairs to look out over the domes, crosses and stones of the Old City. For less than the price of a box of muesli, travelers can have a mattress on the roof and wake up to an Old City sunrise and the sounds of church peals and the muezzin calling worshippers to prayers.

West Jerusalem

The historic King David Hotel in West Jerusalem is a historic landmark. The British army used it as a base during the British Mandate period, and in 1946 the Jewish Underground movement blew up its south wing. Today, it is a favorite of diplomats, heads of state and celebrities. Afternoon tea on its marble terrace has a distinctly colonial feel.

The Jerusalem Hotel Association has 35 hotels on its books, which it recommends for business and upscale leisure travelers. Of architectural note is the YMCA Three Arches Hotel, possibly the most opulent YMCA in the world, which was built by the man who designed New York's Empire State Building. The David Citadel Hotel, which is an airy blend of Jerusalem stone and marble, is a competitor for the same big-name clientele, with recent guests including Hilary Clinton and Madeleine Albright.

Surprisingly, none of Jerusalem's upscale accommodation lies within the Old City. The nearest you will get is the Dan Panorama, whose glass facade looks onto the bricks of the Old City Walls across the street. However, hotels such as the Sheraton, the King Solomon, and the Regency are located on or near Mt. Scopus.

For the Millennium, two new upscale hotels were built on the borders of East and West Jerusalem. These are Novotel and the Olive Tree Hotel. The latter is a theme hotel, popular with tour groups and pilgrims, where the staff dress up in ancient Middle Eastern costumes and the floors of the hotel are named after the gates of Jerusalem.

Another cluster of hotels, popular with both tour groups and business travelers, is in the Givat Ram area. This location is close to the International Conference Center, government offices, the Givat Ram branch of the Hebrew University of Jerusalem, and the Central Bus Station. The Knesset Towers, Renaissance, and Crowne Plaza are all here. This area, which is at the entrance to Jerusalem, is criss-crossed with major roads and is a little removed from the heart of the city.

East Jerusalem

In East Jerusalem, the American Colony Hotel, a favorite with journalists and aid workers, is the palace of a former pasha and has an elegance of times gone by.

For those seeking a cheaper stay, there are many smaller hotels in both East Jerusalem and in the roads around Ben Yehuda Street and Zion Square in West Jerusalem. And who says you have to stay in a hotel? The Home Association of Accommodation in Jerusalem has Internet listings of 51 bed and breakfasts in locations ranging from Ein Kerem to the Old City. The Christian Information Centre has a list of churches that have lodgings attached.

To avoid Joseph and Mary's predicament you may want to reserve ahead of time if your visit coincides with a major religious holiday.

Israel's plentiful range of home-grown fruits and vegetables means that Jerusalem has wonderful salads, fresh juices, and vegetarian dishes to offer. Menus draw heavily on local ingredients such as pine nuts, eggplant, mint, chickpeas, tomato, cucumber, avocados, figs, and Bulgarian cheese (Israel's answer to feta).

West Jerusalem

Vegetarians will find Jerusalem an easy city to eat out in, thanks to Jewish dietary laws that do not allow milk and meat dishes to be served in the same restaurant. Look out for Kosher dairy restaurants, which will have no meat on their menu, such as Yerushalayim haKatana, but might serve fish, and the juice bars that line the roads and alleys of the downtown area. For pure vegetarian food try the canteen style Village Green in the center of town.

Jerusalem has an eclectic range of food to offer due to its standing as an international city, a city on the crossroads between North Africa, the Mediterranean, and the Middle East–a city which is home to both Arab and Jewish cultures. Israel's Jewish immigrants come from all corners of the globe, leading to a lively culinary mix. Jewish food is more than smoked salmon bagels (available at the Holy Bagel) and chopped liver. It is malouweh from Yemen (a deep fried dough served with tomato relish), spicy couscous stews from Morocco, on the menu at Darna, as well as the chicken matzo-ball soup and gefilte fish of Eastern Europe, served by places such as Marvad Haksamim in the Hechal Shlomo synagogue. At ILS130 a head, the King David is probably the priciest option.

The city's favorite snacks are falafel (deep fried balls made from crushed chick peas) and shwarma (slices of lamb) – both of which are served in pita bread along with hummus, tehina, salads, chips, pickles and spicy sauce. In West Jerusalem, head to the alleys of the Mahane Yehuda market for a cheap and authentic falafel experience.

Things happen late in Israel, and many restaurants do not get busy until 9p or later. The biggest concentration of eateries in West Jerusalem is in the pedestrians' area around Zion Square and Ben Yehuda Street, including the charming alleyways of Nahalat Shiva and Yoel Solomon. As this is a popular tourist area there are cuisines here from all around the world: bagel stands, creperies, South American steakhouses such as Pampas or El Gaucho, and Far Eastern food, be it sushi at Sakura or kimchee at Korea House, to name a few.

During Shabbat (just before sundown on Friday to the appearance of the first three stars on Saturday night) many eateries in West Jerusalem will be closed. However, non-Kosher establishments are open as well as the plethora of restaurants in East Jerusalem and the Old City (bar the Jewish Quarter), so you won't go hungry.

East Jerusalem

Sahlab is a delicious Arab drink made from the roots of orchids, which is served warm with a nutmeg and shredded coconut topping. Another popular local delicacy is the boureka – puff pastry with a savory filling, such as mashed potato, spinach, mushrooms, or white cheese. The Arabesque Restaurant is the place to go to get all of the traditional Middle Eastern cuisine as well as selections from various countries all over Central and Eastern Europe. Val's Brasserie Lounge is located in the American Colony Hotel and offers a relaxing experience and dishes from around the world.

Many Arab eateries, such as Pasha's, will provide a nargillah (water pipe with flavored tobacco) for relaxing after a meal. Israel is known for its light, healthy breakfasts and a visit to a breakfast buffet at a five-star hotel is recommended. The staples of an Israeli breakfast are a large range of cheeses and salad vegetables. In keeping with five-star tradition, there will also be omelets, crepes, smoked salmon, cheesecake, and fresh fruit. Guests can help themselves as many times as they like, and lunch afterwards is rarely necessary!

Old City

Inside the Old City, there are many places to grab a takeaway falafel or shwarma. Some other options for eating in this area are the charming Armenia Taverna or the more casual Bagel Bite. Also in the Old City is the always delicious and gourmet Michael Andrew. Abu Shakri in the Arab quarter provides good Middle Eastern food–for those wishing to eat their falafel sitting down. Try labana, a white cheese, and foul – a bean dish seasoned with lemon juice.