Kilkenny, Ireland

Until Oliver Cromwell's troops ransacked the city in 1650, Kilkenny was an important political centre in Ireland, and at times in the middle ages was the de facto capital of the country. Now, with a resident population of about 20,000, it struggles to retain its city status, and occasional unkind voices are heard to suggest that Kilkenny be downgraded to the category of town! However, such bureaucratic wrangling should not deter potential visitors from spending some time in what has become colloquially known the 'Marble City', a reference to the polished limestone used in much of Kilkenny's magnificent architecture, which bears a marked resemblance to shiny black marble. This feature, along with its cobbled side-streets, medieval remains, hand-painted shop-fronts, and a spire-dominated skyline, make a walk through the centre of Kilkenny a pleasant and informative experience in itself.

Local imagination, entrepreneurial spirit, and Kilkenny's singular atmosphere also combine to make it an exciting place to visit. Government initiatives beginning in the 1960s have helped the area become known as the Craft Centre of Ireland. It has gained a name as a conducive haven for artistic types, being both lively and removed from the larger metropolitan areas. This is reflected in the array of creative work on offer locally. The following is a brief guide to some of the entertainment on offer in Kilkenny and surrounding areas, including festivals, sport, cinema, theatre and handicrafts.

Festivals The June Bank holiday weekend sees Kilkenny play host to the phenomenally popular Cat Laughs comedy festival. The feline connection with Kilkenny originates from a limerick about two wildcats of Kilkenny who thought the town wasn't big enough for the both of them, and fought fiercely until their mutual destruction was assured. Today, Cats Laughs aims, not to tear one to shreds, but to be riotously funny instead, and with over thirty comedians from home and abroad, a sprinkling of world class cartoonists and the recently-added short comic film section (Kitty Flicks), there is no shortage of amusement in the nine utilized venues.

The Perrier award-winning Irish comedian Tommy Tiernan, recently portrayed the official mindset of the councilors of his home town of Navan (Co. Meath) as being encapsulated in the apocryphal query: "What would we need an Arts festival for when we've already got a shopping centre?" Whatever the veracity of this statement in relation to the Irish rural mindset, such an accusation certainly cannot be brought against Kilkenny's officialdom. The ten day Kilkenny Arts Festival in August presents a fine blend of classical and cultural entertainment that incorporates film, opera, theatre, literary activity and music from a range of styles. The Kilkenny Arts Festival recently celebrated its 25th anniversary and has become one of the highlights of Ireland's artistic calendar.

On the May bank holiday weekend, most of the venues used in the June comedy extravaganza see an influx of musicians for the Kilkenny Roots Festival festival. An eclectic mix of international country and blues is traditionally offered. For those of more esoteric tastes the recently inaugurated Kilkenny Music Festival aims to promote choral and instrumental music in the Kilkenny district. One should also look out for the annual Confederation of Kilkenny Festival in June, during which the area's proud medieval past is celebrated with pageantry and style.

The Kilkenny Beer Karnivale is perhaps of less obvious cultural merit, but for those with a taste for Latin music, funk or jazz, the line-up from the previous years of this October festival would probably whet the appetite. The Karnivale is run in conjunction with the Kilkenny Racing Festival in nearby Gowran.

Sport There can be few more pleasant locations to enjoy horseracing than the picturesque Gowran Park, which is situated about ten kilometres from the centre of Kilkenny. In addition to the October festival, there are regular National Hunt hurdle and flat meetings throughout the year. For those who wish to go to the dogs there is year-round greyhound racing in James' Park on Freshford Road. Entry is only IRL£3 with children going free and so an evening at this dogtrack represents good value for money - provided of course that you aren't overly generous to the bookies....

The most popular spectator sport in Kilkenny is undoubtedly hurling, which is amongst the fastest team-sports in the world, and one about which Kilkenny people are passionate. The county's vertical black and amber stripes are ubiquitous on match days, and home games are played at Nowlan Park. The Kilkenny team (affectionately known as The Cats) are amongst the most successful in the country and frequently contest the All-Ireland final in Dublin.

Gaelic football is the other major GAA sport, and the Kilkenny team have the dubious claim to the worst record of any county in Ireland. The unfortunate Cats had only won two games in five seasons when they temporarily opted out of the league in 1999. As their manager explained to the Irish Times newspaper, "all the other teams were going all out to hammer us". When Kilkenny's Gaelic team resumes their struggle, they too will play in Nowlan Park and they undoubtedly deserve your support.

Kilkenny also boasts a soccer team, Kilkenny City, who tend to vacillate between Ireland's Premier and First Divisions. They play at Buckley Park in which a new thousand-seater stand is planned. Crowds tend to be relatively small, but derbies against local rivals Waterford United can be torrid affairs, and there are often attractive pre-season friendlies against English clubs. True soccer fans should probably make a point of going to see the Cats in action if possible.

For those who prefer active participation to sitting on the sidelines, Kilkenny offers several options. Golfers of a certain income can enjoy a round at the magnificent Jack Nicklaus-designed Mount Juliet course in nearby Thomastown. The green has played host to some of the world's best players in the Irish Open. Less expensive is the Kilkenny golf course at Callan, a flat, tree-lined championship-standard course, while one could also check out the testing nine-hole course at Castlecomer. If you don't feel up to scratch there is always the Kilkenny Driving Range to put you back on track.

Coarse fishermen might investigate the River Barrow, while salmon and trout can be caught in the Nore. Permits are easily got from angling suppliers (including the Sports Shop, on High Street). Graignamanagh is a particularly popular haunt for keen anglers, and boats can also be rented here. Richer fishermen might wish to try their luck in the water at the Mount Juliet estate, where tutorials are also available. The fishing season lasts from early March through to the end of September.

For horse-riding enthusiasts there is no shortage of equestrian centres around Kilkenny. hese include in no particular order: Vocational School Equestrian Centre, Thomastown; Graiguenamanagh Riding Centre, Graiguenamanagh; Nuenna Farm Riding School, Kilkenny Road, Freshford; and Wallslough Equestrian Village, Sheestown.

Adventurous travelers might try go-cart racing at Reggie Booths, New Road, Mooneeroe, Castlecomer; while those at Kilkoran House in Cuffesgrange recommend their clay pigeon shooting as and excellent way to unwind. Still more sedate however, for those who prefer mental activity to the physical kind, is a visit to the cinema or theatre.

Cinema And Theatre Filmgoers can now check out the digital technology on offer at the Kilkenny Cineplex at the top of Friary Street. More serious film buffs might like to investigate what the laudable Kilkenny Film Society has to offer usually a selection of less commercial offerings, projected on 18mm equipment in the magnificent setting of Kilkenny Castle.

Kilkenny has one major theatre, the Watergate on Parliament Street, that is both cosy and well-designed. The Kilkenny area is home to a few excellent theatre groups, including Bickerstaffe and Barnstorm, and the Watergate offers a wide range of plays performed by professional companies and amateur ensembles of varying degrees of ability. Cleere's Pub, across the road, incorporates a small theatre (less than a hundred seats) and also boasts a high standard of dramatic output and poetry readings. See the local press for details of cinema and theatre showings.

Handicrafts The diversity of art and handicraft work on offer in Kilkenny makes it unfair to single out some outlets over others. Keen shoppers will certainly not be disappointed, and, bearing in mind that one person's kitsch is another person's art, it is worth the visitor's while browsing the shops and studios in the city centre and surrounding areas.

Few visitors to Kilkenny will leave without visiting Kilkenny Castle, and what was once the Castle Stables, across the parade, is now the Kilkenny Design Centre in which quality craftwork from throughout Ireland is sold. Behind the Centre are the workshops of many local craftspeople and designers. This tasteful blend of history, commerce and art could be regarded as the Kilkenny experience in microcosm.

Alternatively those seeking leatherwork might try Chesneau Leather Goods in Bennetsbridge, Toner Leathers in Thomastown or Padmore and Barnes on Wolfe Tone Street. The Kilkenny Crystal Workshop in Callan, Duiske Glass in Graiguenamanagh and Jerpoint Glass Studio in Stoneyford all offer cut and engraved glass. For pottery try Mary O'Gorman, Nicholas Mosse, or Stoneware Jackson Pottery all in Bennettsbridge, or Jenkinstown House in Jenkinstown. Handmade jewellery is available from Rudolf Heltzel on Patrick Street and from Liam Costigan on Collierslane. It should be re-iterated, however, that these lists are not exclusive the pleasure of a real bargain or find might well lie in any of the small craft outlets that are dotted throughout the area.

Ireland's medieval capital is satisfyingly compact and, with a modicum of planning, a stroll through the city centre can easily serve as a fascinating historical tour. A good starting point is the 13th century St. Canice's Cathedral (at the north-western end) from which the town takes its name: Cill Cainneach is Gaelic for 'Canice's church'. Enquire about climbing the 30 metre round tower, and view the limestone effigies of Piers and Margaret Butler that lie within the Cathedral. The stone andtimberwork in evidence here is breathtaking, while the ubiquitous black marble, most notably in St Ciaran's chair in the north transept, suggest why Kilkenny is also known as the 'Marble City'. The library next door is also worth visiting as it stores thousands of 16th and 17th century manuscripts.

Follow Vicar Street onto Dean Street. Take the second left onto Abbey Street, cross the bridge and you will see the walls of the Black Abbey, which also dates from the 13th century. In the 1300s eight priests here were lost to the infamous Black Death, although the Abbey itself is more prosaically named after the colors of the Dominican robes. While here, look for the adjacent Black Freren Gate that is the sole standing gate from the original town walls.

Continue onto Parliament Street, turn right and Rothe House is a short distance down on your right. Home of the Kilkenny Archaeological Society, this magnificently preserved Tudor merchant's house dates from 1594. Take time to see the brief audio-visual show that is offered and look out for temporary exhibitions. Where Parliament Street diverges into High Street and St. Kieran's Street, take the holy option and check out Kyteler's Inn on your left. In addition to it being a nice spot for refreshments, this is the oldest house in Kilkenny, and was the home of Dame Alice Kyteler who led a remarkable life here in the 13th century before being forced to flee after accusations of witchcraft. Her unfortunate maid Petronella was burned at the stake for the same alleged offense.

From Kytelers, cross the road and head through the Butterslip (opposite Dunnes Stores). This attractive, narrow lane was built in 1616 and was once lined with butter-sellers. It will bring you onto High Street. The beautiful Italian-looking Georgian building on the right as you emerge is the Tholsel, and dates from 1761. Built of black Kilkenny marble, it was once a tollhouse and now functions as a city hall. From here, head southwards (ie away from Canice's cathedral), until you reach Rose Inn Street on the left. On this street is the Shee Alms house, which was founded by one Sir Richard Shee to help the indigent of the town. It is now a tourist office and offers a half-hourly 'Cityscope' exhibition that is worth checking out. Further up Rose Inn Street is St. John's College. This has beautiful grounds and can be explored for a small fee. The walk to it is worth it, if only because it takes you across John's Bridge, and it can be glorious to relax by the riverside in good weather, perhaps with a beverage from nearby Tynans or Matt the Millers.

Retrace your steps along Rose Inn Street, where there is ample selection for those who desire further refreshment and turn left up The Parade. Here, fittingly at the end of our tour, is the jewel in the city's crown, the majestic Kilkenny Castle, and across the road, the Castle Yard. While much has been written about the Castle, its sheer grandeur undoubtedly speaks for itself.