Melbourne is a city of neighborhoods. Italian or Chinese, groovy or chic, bohemian or beachside — Melbourne has them all. Each has its own character instilled by the type of people who live and work there — émigrés from all over the world who have brought their customs, beliefs, businesses, food, art and style to the city.
The Central Business District
Laid out as a grid, the city center is easy to navigate. The modern skyline of the financial district contrasts with well-preserved Victorian architecture, and the alley ways and arcades that snake through the city give it all charm and character. Swanston Street, a pedestrian mall generally considered to be the city's main drag, runs from the ornate 19th century domes of
Southbank
On the southern bank of the muddy and surprisingly narrow river lies the landmark
Prahran & South Yarra
Just out of the city are Prahran and South Yarra, names often used interchangeably for roughly the same area. Home to Chapel Street, lined with boutiques and nightclubs, this is Melbourne's favorite playground and is packed every weekend with young people out for only one thing—fun! Saturday nights see the street grind to a halt and transform into a traffic jam disco, as cars blare top volume techno music, while the gay strip along Commercial Road also buzzes. The funkier, more relaxed Greville Street is home of vintage fashion stores, a
St Kilda
Further out is St Kilda, which has transformed from a shabby red light district to a bayside resort, and is now a popular place for backpackers and Melburnians on a sunny weekend. The attraction is not so much the mediocre
Carlton
Just north of the city is Carlton. Many of the quaint Victorian terrace houses have been converted into student accommodation for the nearby university, and the district's cafés and bookstores buzz with life. The new
Fitzroy
Even more cosmopolitan is Brunswick Street, one of Melbourne's liveliest and most distinctive streets. Originally a working class neighborhood, it has emerged as the heartland of bohemian café culture, humming night and day with colorful bars, nightclubs and restaurants of every description, as well as funky and unconventional stores. Running parallel a few blocks down, Smith Street retains a grittier edge, with long-time local residents, refugees and the down and out mixing with the patrons of its cafés and music venues.
Williamstown & Other Areas
A little further out, but easily accessible by ferry or train, lies the old town of Williamstown—once a vital port. This quiet residential suburb has recently regained favor after many years in decline. Picturesque and historic streets, views over the sea and pride in bygone days attract hundreds of weekend visitors. An
Once home to Greek immigrants, Richmond more recently has become known as “Little Saigon” with a growing Vietnamese community opening restaurants and shops along Victoria Street. The factory outlet stores of Bridge Road and Swan Street attract those in the know seeking bargain buys.
Tree-lined streets and beautiful town houses distinguish South Melbourne, popular both for its
Melbourne her neighborhoods, and it is only through exploring them that visitors will get a feel for the underlying beauty of this vibrant multicultural city.
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With a lively cultural life, a wide selection of clubs and bars, a restaurant for every cuisine, one of the world's biggest casinos, a multitude of festivals and events and a rich theater tradition, there is no excuse to be bored in Melbourne! The city that was once noted as a somewhat dour after-hours town has quietly transformed itself into an entertainment hub, with a nightlife that many larger cities would envy.
To keep abreast of what is going on, check the free street press—Beat magazine and Inpress which come out every Wednesday. Both are available from many music stores, cafés and pubs, and contain comprehensive listings for the week's entertainment. Alternatives are the daily newspaper The Age's green guide (Thursday) or the Victoria Visitor Information Centre.
Bars & Pubs
English-style pubs have traditionally been the bedrock of Melbourne's entertainment scene, and the city is blessed with a multitude. Every area will have one, and they range from the grungy Punter's Club to more elegant venues. There are traditional watering holes—Old Colonial Inn or the quirky Builder's Arms—and Melbourne institutions such as The Esplanade. Usually opening in the afternoon and shutting around midnight or later, many serve food as well as providing beer gardens, satellite television, pool tables or live music.
Recently, a slew of stylish, intimate bars have evolved in the lanes and alleyways of the central business district. They draw an eager crowd of after-work drinkers and stay open until late. Try Spleen on Bourke Street, or just head off and find one of your own—they seem to pop up in little recesses of the city overnight!
Live Music
Melbourne is widely regarded as the live music capital of Australia. Everyone who is anyone in the Australian music scene plays here regularly, and almost-legendary venues such as the Punter's Club and The Espy are packed every night with band-goers looking for old favorites or the next big thing. The favored style is grungy alternative rock, but there is also a fledgling funk/jazz/hip hop community. International touring acts, from obscure cult artists to superstars, regularly visit. Tickets are usually handled by the main agencies, Ticketek and Ticketmaster.
Those with more discerning musical tastes will enjoy the Melbourne Symphony Orchestra, Opera Australia, the brilliant 85-piece Australian Pops Orchestra or the delightful Australian Boys Choir.
Nightlife
Melbourne's club scene is large and varied but concentrated in a few different districts. King Street, in the city center, is home to several large and well-known establishments. South Yarra, around Chapel Street, attracts a hipper crowd to venues such as Revolver, The Viper Room, while Brunswick and Smith Streets in Fitzroy cater to a more bohemian, alternative crowd with smaller venue—the Night Cat and Planet Afrik for jazz, African and Latin music. St Kilda, home to Monkey, Twister and the Prince of Wales, is also a lively part of town. The Crown Entertainment Complex is home to a variety of establishments, from cabaret to wine bars, a jazz club and the popular Heat discotheque. Its casino is one of the largest in the world, and it also houses a five-star hotel and a plethora of shops and restaurants on the southern bank of the Yarra River.
Gay Scene
Melbourne's thriving gay scene is mostly centered around slick Commercial Road in South Yarra, near the corner of Chapel Street. There is also a gay patch around Smith Street in Fitzroy and Collingwood, home to establishments like the cruisy Peel, the Laird leather bar, alternative rock venue Q & A and the Glasshouse pub. Unfortunately, as in most cities, men are much better catered for than women. Detailed listings as well as news, personal ads and the like can be found in the free gay press, the weekly Melbourne Star Observer and the fortnightly Brother Sister, which can be picked up at venues and also in many bookshops and cafés. Keep an eye out for various events held throughout the year such as Midsumma Festival, Queer Film and Video Festival and the ALSO dance parties.
Theater and Cinema
Melbourne's lively theater scene offers everything from experimental works to mainstream Broadway-style blockbusters like Miss Saigon or Phantom of the Opera. What is more, the city can offer them in truly beautiful and historic theaters such as Her Majesty's and the Princess Theatre.
Ballet and dance are as good as any in the world and The Australian Ballet performs 160 shows a year to packed houses. For something a bit more funky, Chunky Move discards traditional theater venues, performing bold works in club-type settings. OzOpera similarly abandons tradition and takes its own version of opera to everyday people in both Melbourne and across regional Victoria.
There is a full range of cinemas from Hoyts and Village blockbuster multiplexes to arthouse such as the Astor or the Lumiere. An International Film Festival is held in winter while summer in the city would not be the same without the Moonlight Cinema set in the beautiful surrounds of the Royal Botanical Gardens.
Events
Melbourne has a packed events calendar. A major International Arts Festival has its attendant Fringe Festival and the family-oriented Moomba Waterfest is fun. There are separate celebrations of comedy, contemporary visual art, gardening, writing, fashion and food. There are also Italian, Greek, Vietnamese and Chinese festivals, and happenings in St Kilda, Chapel Street, Williamstown and Brunswick Street. Summer sees regular seasons of outdoor cinema, classical music and jazz, and year-round the city hosts trade fairs for industries as diverse as holidays, motoring, aeronautics and sex!
The city is renowned for major international sporting events including the Australian Open Grand Slam tennis tournament, the Grand Prix motor race, marathons, cricket tests and major golf tournaments. But perhaps its biggest sporting events are its most unique—the AFL Grand Final, which decides the champion of the national football code and the famous Melbourne Cup horse race, held like clockwork on the second Tuesday of November—and stops the nation.
Melburnians love food. If one thing sets Melbourne apart from almost all other cities in the world, it is the outstanding quality, variety and affordability of its food and drink. Melbourne's thousands of restaurants and cafés feed the city's millions with nearly every cuisine imaginable.
While some of the best places can be tucked away in the nooks and crannies of the city, it is not particularly difficult to find good food anywhere. It is actually harder to find a bad meal than it is to stumble upon a great find! Just walk down the street and take your pick of cafés, restaurants, bars and takeaway outlets. Ambiance is as important as the food, and style is simply a way of life in Melbourne, so expect to find the most popular places in the city's famous streets and districts, each known for a specific approach to lifestyle, fashion or food.
Brunswick Street
In the north of the city, Brunswick Street has become a weekend favorite for long, languid brunches enjoyed in a distinctly inner city, urban environment. The best cafés have been established for years—such as Marios and The Fitz. Newer arrivals such Retro Cafe and Umago are sneaking up the popularity stakes. These eateries are well patronized and serve up huge, hearty delectable brunches (all day and all night) using the local fresh produce to its best advantage. Brunswick Street is a sanctuary for Melbourne's fringe dwellers and arts community, so be prepared to meet street performers, joke tellers, fire twirlers and many other colorful locals.
Lygon Street
The first wave of Italian immigrants claimed this area as their domain and it remains so today. Any celebration of Italian culture takes place here—festivals, food, fashion and the Italian sense of fun. Many of the eateries are without pretense, simply serving good wholesome Italian food the way mama used to cook it. Places like Tiamo and Brunetti have remained the same since the day they opened and can be relied on for quality at a reasonable price. Santinos Terrace is ideal for that extra special treat.
Victoria Street
If you are traveling to the east of Brunswick Street, chances are you will stumble into Victoria Street and wonder if you are still in Australia. A wonderful example of Melbourne's cultural diversity, Victoria Street is a hectic and exciting strip of Vietnamese restaurants, businesses and street traders. People scurry to and fro and locals flock here to enjoy incredibly quick, cheap eats which are guaranteed to fill the belly. Restaurants such as Tho Tho's, Thy Thy I and The Huong have thrived in this area on quick turnaround and word of mouth.
Central Business District
With abandoned warehouses being turned into slick, modern apartments, the city of Melbourne is no longer a place just for weekday business lunches. Groovy cocktail bars, such as the Gin Palace, Hairy Canary and Melbourne Supper Club are springing up in the back alleyways to accommodate the chic set who call the city center their home. There are numerous examples of fine dining in the city center that cater specifically for the Melbourne professional — Grossi Florentino, Marchetti's Latin and Tuscan Grill are all celebrated establishments.
Chinatown
Where would any hungry city be without a Chinatown? Situated on Little Bourke Street in central Melbourne, Chinatown is a significant attraction of Melbourne, seeing little change over the years since the first Chinese came to make their fortunes on the goldfields. Traditionally, Chinatown is Sunday yum cha, yet Melbourne's Chinatown reflects the city's all day, all night eating attitude. The choice is wide, from restaurants that are a treat to the pocket as well as the tastebuds, to Chinese dining at its most magnificent — Flower Drum. Along with the restaurants, Chinatown also has many grocers and specialty shops, as well as a Chinese Museum.
Southbank
While Southbank may exude commercialism in a way that is quite unusual for Melbourne, the food and entertainment in this area have proved to be very successful. Visitors can choose from classy and more costly to fast, funky and affordable (Blue Train). The Crown Entertainment Centre, with its many offerings, is hugely popular. Southbank also acts as a gateway to many tourist attractions such as the Melbourne Aquarium, Victorian Arts Centre and Polly Woodside.
Chapel Street
Fashion is the key when heading to Chapel Street. Be seen (and make sure you have reason for people to look) on this trendy strip of designer clothes and all-that-is-hip. Expensive cars cruise Chapel Street at night but it is just as popular during the day when the beautiful people shop and enjoy long lunches over wine and coffee. The eateries are specially designed to complement the clientele with attitude and accouterments to match. Try out Caffe Sienna, Caffe e Cucina and Kush.
Acland Street
St Kilda exudes the relaxed, kickback culture of the seaside all year round and has grown as another arts center within Melbourne. Acland Street is at the heart of this culture—a place where you can savor the best coffees and eat the most delicious, kilojoule-laden, continental cakes in town. Many of these cafés are without presence (La Roche Cafe), but others are tailored for a more groovy crowd (Big Mouth). On Sundays, enjoy the shopping on Acland Street then peruse the crafts at the Esplanade Market.
Fitzroy Street
Just around the corner from Acland Street, Fitzroy Street could be considered the main drag of St Kilda with its broad avenue leading down towards the beach. In the past Fitzroy Street gained a reputation as one of the seedier areas of Melbourne, but has now been claimed by the young arty set. Restaurants, cafés and bars, such as Sapore, Mink and Leo's Spaghetti Bar, make Fitzroy Street the place to eat, while still retaining its old street life charm.
Restaurants may come and go in this culinary crazed city, but the hospitality industry is thriving. Enjoy!
Melbourne is a cosmopolitan city sprawled around a wide beach-lined bay. Yet its center is very walkable. Many of the city's most famous attractions are within a short stroll of each other, or you can hop on one of the city's historic trams and trundle between them.
Federation Square
Federation Square is the new focal point of Melbourne and home to some of the city's most interesting museums. The National Gallery of Victoria's Australian collection is housed here at The Ian Potter Centre: NGV Australia. There's also the Australian Centre for the Moving Image and the Australian Racing Museum, dedicated to horseracing. Pick up a bowl of noodles at the popular and funky Chocolate Buddha on the northern side of the central square. Federation Square comes alive with festivals, performances and exhibitions year round. Inquire at the Melbourne Visitor Centre on the eastern corner about what's going on. From here, you can catch the free City Circle Tram on Flinders Street for a circuit of the CBD or head down to the river, directly below Federation Square, where you can rent a bike at Hire a Bike to explore the riverside Main Yarra Trail.
National Gallery of Victoria
Across the Yarra, The NGV: International showcases art from around the world, including collections from Asia and the Pacific. Next door is The Arts Centre, home to the Melbourne Theatre Company. Tours of the centre leave at 11am on Monday to Saturday and 12:15pm on Sundays. In the afternoon or evening, take in a play. Students, under 27-year-old's and seniors can buy half-price tickets from the box-office from two hours before performances begin. From October to December, The Famous Spiegeltent sets up in The Arts Centre forecourt. Recreating the world of traveling European theaters, the mirror-lined tent hosts musical and theatrical performances. Within the Arts Centre, Curve Bar offers drinks, meals and interesting canapés, while Café Vic serves up quick meals before the show. On Sundays, the Arts Centre Sunday Market lines the footpath from the concert hall to the river's edge, selling quality Australian crafts.
Eureka Skydeck 88
Just along the Southbank Promenade from here is Eureka Tower. At 92 floors, it's the highest building in the Southern Hemisphere, and the viewing platform at Eureka Skydeck 88 affords views all across Melbourne. Choose from the community of eateries in nearby Crown Entertainment Complex or watch the street performers at the Southgate Leisure Precinct while licking ice-cream from Trampoline. Boat tours of the Yarra leave from the lower promenade below Southbank Promenade. From here, you can also take the Williamstown Ferry across the bay to Scienceworks museum, with its hands-on exhibits for kids. Alternatively, you can head across Kings Way Bridge to Melbourne Aquarium. Its walk-through shark exhibit provides a close-up encounter with Australia's famous razor-toothed predators.
The Royal Botanic Gardens
The Royal Botanic Gardens is one of the finest in the world and a hub for Melbourne's outdoor life. Tours of its sweeping lawns, conservatories and giant trees are available through the gardens' Visitors Center. In the summer months, watch a movie relaxing on beanbags under the stars at the Moonlight Cinema or take in a play by the Australian Shakespeare Company on the gardens' lawns. The Terrace restaurant offers relaxed dining and Devonshire teas by the gardens' Ornamental Lake, while Observatory Café near the Ian Potter Foundation Children's Garden serves fresh, casual meals. On the lawns by the café is the historic Melbourne Observatory. Across the road, one of Melbourne's most prominent landmarks, The Shrine of Remembrance, commemorates the sacrifices made by service men and women.
Melbourne Museum
Set in gracious Carlton Gardens, Melbourne Museum is one of the best places to learn about Melbourne and its surroundings. Don't miss the Melbourne Story exhibit about the city's history, or Bunjilaka, the Australian Aboriginal Centre. The museum has an extensive shop with quality Australian crafts and educational toys. In the same building is an IMAX cinema, and just across the courtyard is the World Heritage-listed Royal Exhibition Buildings, built in 1880 for Melbourne's first International Exhibition. Tours of the Exhibition Buildings depart most days at 2pm from Melbourne Museum. For a bite to eat, head to the Italian and university heartland of Lygon Street, just two blocks west down Grattan Street, or one stop on the free Melbourne City Tourist Shuttle. Nearby, Thresherman's Bakehouse has huge, hearty, meals for a tiny price, while Brunetti serves up authentic Italian coffees, extravagant pastries and rich hot chocolates.
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