Nantucket, Massachusetts

The name Nantucket derives from an Indian word that means "far away land" or "land far out to sea". The name applies to the island, the county that encompasses the island, and the island's main town—the only place in America that can claim such a distinction. The frequent fogs and common gray exterior of most homes has earned the Island the affectionate nickname of "little Gray Lady of the Sea".

First charted in 1602, and originally inhabited by the Wampanoag Indian tribe, the official history of the Island's European settlement begins in 1659, when a group of nine men invested "the sum of thirty pounds...and also two beaver hats, one for myself and one for my wife", to the present "owner", Thomas Mayhew, for the purchase of the island with the initial intent to raise sheep. The investors then offered half shares of property to entice skilled craftsmen to develop the island.

In 1672, the Islanders found whaling an ideal way to increase revenue. Experienced whalers were recruited to teach residents how to tap the abundant whale population in nearby waters. However, the whale population in nearby waters diminished over time, and whalers had to venture further out to sea to find more of the profitable mammal. On one of these voyages, in 1712, a boat blown off course discovered a pod of sperm whales, whose oil and by-products were considered preferable to those of local whales. The Island subsequently became the center for exploitation of sperm whales.

Nantucket flourished as the Whaling Capital of the World, and as the home base for entrepreneurs and investors interested in the products and by-products of the whaling industry. Nantucket's prosperity lasted until the mid-19th Century, when it was brought to a halt by a series of events. A sandbar formed, denying larger and heavier whalers access to the harbor. The town was hit by the great fire of 1846. The 1849 gold rush drew whalers to California, depleting the work force, and mainland whaling centers, like New Bedford, Massachusetts, gained the advantage of rail links to the rest of the country. The final blow came as cheaper petroleum products destroyed the market for whale oil The Island went into an economic decline that lasted until tourism came to the rescue.

In 1894, the Nantucket Historical Association (NHA) was founded to preserve the Island's history. The numerous museums, homes and historic properties scattered throughout the town depict how the original inhabitants lived and worked as Nantucket grew from a small 17th-century farming community into a whaling Mecca, and further evolved into an immensely popular summer resort in the 20th Century. Many of the homes of whalers and sea captains still stand today as private homes (available for occasional tours as part of fundraisers) guesthouses, antique shops and restaurants. Most of these homes retain the colorful names given them when they were built.

Numerous steps are taken to preserve the architecture of the Island; even the sizes of signs and exterior color changes of homes need to be approved by the NHA. Residents are very protective of the unique architecture and remoteness of the Island—there are no high-rise buildings or hotel chains; notice when arriving via ferry that church steeples are what you see as the skyline.

Some 800 homes built before the Civil War still stand, including the Oldest House, built in 1686, which belonged to Jethro Coffin, grandson of one of the original purchasers. This house now belongs to the NHA and, although the island has more buildings listed in the National Register Of Historic Places than any other place in Massachusetts, including Boston, Plymouth and Salem, it is Nantucket's only National Historical Landmark.

The Island still has three operating lighthouses that offer a direct physical link to the whaling era: Great Point Lighthouse, at the northern tip; Sankaty Head Lighthouse, along the eastern shoreline; and Brant Point Light, the second oldest lighthouse in the United States. A rare collection of whaling artifacts is on display at the Whaling Museum in the center of town. The cobblestones you see on Lower Main Street are the ballast that weighed down empty ships returning from delivering whale oil to England. The cobblestones enabled carts transporting heavy oil to move up from the wharves without sinking in the mud, but they are not easy on the feet. So, when visiting, be sure to wear comfortable walking shoes.

Nantucket is a seaside haven with ideal accommodations for any occasion: a romantic celebration, family vacation, corporate retreat, special event or just a weekend getaway. However, Nantucket is not the place to come if you want to stay in a chain hotel or high-rise; they have yet to find their way to the Island. Most lodging can be found in Nantucket Town.

Accommodations on Nantucket are extremely limited: there are approximately 1200 beds available in high season, and 40,000 visitors make their way to the island on a busy summer day. Translation: reserve early! Sure, the spontaneous traveler may find a last minute cancellation, but you are much better advised to plan your trip to Nantucket thoughtfully, making ferry, dinner, and hotel reservations ahead of time.

Nantucket Town

Bed and breakfasts are plentiful in Nantucket Town, with choices like the Martin House Inn, the Anchor Inn and the Ivy Lodge Bed and Breakfast all at the top of the list in terms of quality and comfort. Also look into some of the many unique hotels, like the White Elephant Hotel Residences, which is over a century old and offers guest townhouse style lodging. The views from the hilltop Cliff Lodge are stunning, while the Ships Inn offers the historic appeal of being the home of a former abolitionist.

With such a limited number of guest accommodations, standard deposit and cancellation policies are strictly adhered to. Certain weekends, and especially in peak season, minimum stays are required, usually three days. Generally, if canceling a reservation is necessary, deposits (less 10% service fee) will be refunded up to 15 days prior to scheduled arrival. On shorter notice, deposits may not be fully refunded if the room cannot be re-booked for the entire canceled period. Be sure to clarify rates and deposit/cancellation policies with your innkeeper. It is also a good idea to make sure your needs are being met: while many lodging establishments have individual air conditioning units, refrigerators, private baths, cable TV or working fireplaces, just as many do not. (Visit the Nantucket Lodging Association's Web site, www.nantucketlodging.org, for a description of general policies, for assistance in finding a room, as well as for last-minute room availability).

To hone in on the perfect setting for your trip, ask the following questions: Do you want to be in the center of town, off the beaten path or overlooking the water? Do you want a luxurious, full-service resort with a pool, or an intimate old Nantucket home? Are you looking for an inn that includes breakfast, or would you rather feast on the delicious treats served in town? If you have trouble making up your mind, it might make you feel better to know that it is not uncommon for visitors to split their time between two inns.

When considering B&Bs, remember that they are more than just places to rest your head. They can be sources of entertainment and comfort on chilly, rainy or foggy days—not uncommon on the island nicknamed the Grey Lady. Your Inn can be where you end up spending most of your island time—sitting in front of the fire in the common room or your room, or hanging out in a library filled with books and games. Most Island B&B proprietors have a well-earned reputation for hospitality. They are a valuable source of information for what to do, where to eat, and how to get from point A to point B.

Rates are highest and the island is most crowded in-season, from mid-June to mid-September, plus Christmas Stroll, the first weekend in December. Mid-season is mid-May to mid-June, when properties are just reopening, and shoulder season, or off-season, runs from late fall to early spring. Many inns close in the off season, but you can also find excellent bargains including package deals complete with room, transportation, and meals.

Although many frequent visitors to Nantucket always return to the same lodgings, half the fun is exploring a new inn or bed & breakfast, and getting a view of the Island from a different location and owners' perspective. The personal service, idyllic scenery, proximity of most properties to Nantucket town and charm of the island ensure that anywhere you choose to stay will enhance your Island experience.