Spread across several islands, from the medieval quarter of Gamla Stan to the bohemian cool of Södermalm, the Swedish capital should be high on the agenda for any visit to Scandinavia.
Headline attraction
The island of Gamla Stan, meaning Old Town, was the original heart of Stockholm. The medieval atmosphere has been preserved and though the main drag Västerlånggatan is packed with tourists, you can easily escape into the narrow streets lined with ancient, dirty-pastel buildings. Drop by the Royal Palace, Kungliga Slottet, at midday to see the changing of the guard.
Best of the rest
Dubbed Sofo (because its south of Folkungagatan) the trendy neighbourhood of Södermalm more than lives up to its London and NYC equivalents. By day you can browse vintage boutiques, quirky homeware stores and skater shops, and by night drop in the bars for a laid-back drink or live music.
Chow down and try the local tipple
Chatting over coffee and cake is so common a Stockholmer habit it's got its own name 'fika'. Indulge at Kaffekoppen on Gamla Stan's main square. Once your eyes have grown accustomed to the candlelight, order a slice of blueberry pie and a bowl of coffee sprinkled with cinnamon.
For a snapshot of indie Stockholm try Mosebacke Etablissment in Södermalm. You'll find the original Icebar in Norrmalm. For something warmer head to Berns a bar, restaurant and club in one.
Museum time
The island of Djurgården is now dominated by Skansen, an open-air history museum. Nearby is the Nordiska Museet (the National Museum of Cultural History) and the vast warehouse of the Vasamuseet, home to a huge flagship that was dredged from the harbour where it sank on its maiden voyage in 1628.
On the small island of Skeppsholmen you'll find the Moderna Museet, with works by Picasso, Dalí and Warhol, the Svensk Form Design Centre and the Arkitekturmuseet, covering 1000 years of Swedish architecture.
Retail therapy
Norrmalm on the mainland is Stockholms modern centre. The pedestrianised street of Drottninggatan is the place to go for shopping. The main stores include the Selfridges-esque NK and slightly more purse-friendly Åhléns. Youll also find several branches of Swedish chain H&M.
Need to know
When to go: Spring or summer for the outdoor museum Skansen
Getting there: Main airport Arlanda is the most central of Stockholms three airports. Its 20 minutes into town on the Arlanda Express - find flights
Money: Euro - Check out Currency Converter for the latest rates
Language: Swedish
Getting around: Get a sense of Stockholms islands on foot. You can use the same tickets on the buses, tunnelbana (underground), and vintage trams from Norrmalm to Djurgården
Accommodation: Search for hotels