Parma, Italy

That's entertainment!! (in Parma)

Parma is a small provincial city but there is plenty to do and to see. There are museums, historical attractions, various cinemas, concerts and nightspots to keep everyone happy, (for those who like to paint the town red as well as those who prefer culture to pure fun). Let's start with the museums. Firstly, we have the Galleria Nazionale. The museum is located inside the Palazzo della Pilotta, a former Farnesian fortress only partly preserved, overlooking the Piazzale della Pace, in the heart of the centre, not far from the Teatro Regio and Piazza Garibaldi. You will encounter canvases from the 13th to the 19th century, with an important 16th century sculpture collection from Parma, there are major works by Correggio and Parmigianino. The sculptures are mostly relics from the city's two symbolic monuments: the cathedral and the Battistero. Still within the Pilotta, the Museo Archeologico and the Museo Bodiniano, should not be missed, nor should the Teatro Farnese, testimony to art at the time of the Farnese, a unique example of a wooden theatre which has remained intact, at least in the main structure, which has captured the hearts of tourists form all over the world. Right in front of the Pilotta is the Museo Glauco Lombardi, at no.15 Via Garibaldi. A visit to this recently renovated treasure chest is a step back in time (3 centuries ago, to be precise), to the time of the Parma dukedom – 1748-1859 – and of Maria Luigia, a sovereign who has left an indelible imprint on Parma which the locals still like to boast about. Also on display are relics, cards, décor, clothes and other items belonging to ducal families and residences. At the Pinacoteca Stuard, on Via Cavestro 4, behind Via Mazzini, the most important collection consists of a group of canvases of the Tuscan school from the 14th and 15th centuries. Among the more renowned artists on display are Bernardo Daddi, Bicci di Lorenzo, Nicolò di Tommaso as well as Giovanni Brueghel, il Guercino, Jacopo Palma the younger, il Guercino and Bartolomeo Schedoni.

Lovers of science and nature should not miss the University of Parma's Natural History Museum in the street of the same name and the Orto Botanico, at no.70, Via Farini. The city's cathedral or Duomo is situated in the centre is an example of Romanesque architecture and is well worth a look. Benedetto Antelami's Battistero, the Vescovado, the church of San Giovanni, or the chamber of San Paolo, frescoed by Correggio, are also worth seeing. The Csac, the centre of archive studies of communication should definitely not be missed, an appendice to the History of Art Institute, part of the Faculty of Arts, which is a great museum of contemporary art which contains thousands of works including canvases, photos, sketches by top fashion designers etc. The museum cannot always be visited however, so 'phone beforehand. The building is in the station area, (at no.6 Via Palermo on a recently redeveloped, old industrial estate) not right in the centre but easily reached by bus. You can even walk there. Certosa di Paradigna is also a short walk away and is an old Cistercian/Benedictine monastery, currently being rebuilt, which is only a few kilometers from the city.

Cinema Almost all of the cinemas are located in the centre within a hundred meters or so of Piazza Garibaldi and its surrounding area (such as cinema Roma in Viale Fratti), or in the station area, eg. Trento cinema on the road of the same name.

The Capitol multi-screen cinema, the city's biggest cinema in San Pancrazio, on the western periphery of Parma on Via Emilia. Among the three independent cinemas, the Astra, just outside the centre is the largest. It features art house films as well as a range of selected first screenings and in summer, in the summer arena, there are some interesting second showings and other unedited, ‘surprise' showings. In addition, at the D'Azeglio cinema, on the Oltretorrente road of the same name, there are displays, a cineforum and films in their original language. Il Cinghio, in the area of the same name on the city's southern periphery, there are some top quality exhibitions and really good old as well as more recent films. In this cinema, which also serves as a theatre, there are often classical and modern concerts, especially in winter. Still at the Cinghio, you will often come across photographic exhibitions in the room next to the cinema.

Theatres

Firstly, there is the Teatro Regio, in Via Garibaldi, which is a temple to opera. Every year a winter season is organized and tickets sell like hot cakes. Parma locals, are music experts and fans of Giuseppe Verdi, and therefore keen on opera. The billboard also lists symphonic and chamber music concerts with the world's best orchestras. In summer, the biggest and most imposing shows move to the Piazzale della Pilotta, which turns into an arena.

At Teatro Due you can see plays as well as musicals and more avant-garde shows. There are classical music concerts too at the Galleria nazionale (in winter) and at the Fondazione Magnani (in summer), in Mamiano, a small settlement 15 minutes by car from Parma, towards the hills of Traversetolo.

Exploring Parma

Parma's beauty, as a ducal city, is for the most part concentrated in its old town. To really get to know the place though, you need to take a walk around Oltretorrente, or rather in the area around the river Parma which is most characteristic, with its narrow streets, little piazzas and rows of houses that bring to mind the streets of Venice. There is the Parco Ducale with its palazzo (now home to the police's provincial headquarters), enclosed by trees and green meadows which are so attractive to young and old alike. Another historic monument and a place to relax and regroup is the Cittadella, which is surrounded by one of Parma's most elegant areas. The old town really consists of ‘everything surrounding Piazza Garibaldi'. Apart from bars and shops (this area is a real godsend for those who love shopping) the majority of the monuments, historical palaces and museums are concentrated in a circle, its encompassed by Via Mazzini, Via Repubblica, Via Garibaldi and Via Farini. There really is a great deal to see here. Leaving the piazza and entering Via Cavour, (the main walkway where thousands of youngsters meet up to strut their stuff in the afternoon) you will soon reach the cathedral and the Battistero. The Vescovado, overlooks the same piazza and houses the administrative offices. Situated behind the cathedral is the church of San Giovanni, which is worth a look; it is a building which displays several different styles of architecture, especially important for its dome, decorated with frescoes by Correggio: a scene depicting the ascension of the saint which has conquered the world. The entire monastery annexed to the church is fascinating, with its unique library decorated by frescoes and the cloisters adorned with an abundance of flowers, if you are really lucky, the monks will show you some of the most ‘secret' cloisters. Beside the monastic complex is the Spezieria di San Giovanni, an old ‘pharmacy' which is a mecca for tourists and students from all over Italy and the rest of the world. Not far from there (turning into Via Cavour and entering Via Melloni) is the monastery of San Paolo. The abbess' chamber is worth a visit, as it bears marks of Correggio's works. From via Melloni to via Garibaldi: the spectacle of the Piazzale della Pace, with the Pilotta will soon put in an appearance and will not disappoint. This imposing Farnesian fortress, overlooks a green meadow, and captures the heart of many a visitor. Not far away, towards Via Mazzini on the left hand side is the Steccata church, a baroque masterpiece with a triumphant arch inside and a small but masterful Parmigiano fresco. The piazza adjacent to this church bears the same name and is also very attractive. Then there is the Parmigianino monument, at the centre of the piazza with a fountain beneath, ideal for letting the young ones play around and giving your dog a drink. The Vender clothes shop is very interesting and has remained more or less the same since the beginning of the century; it still manages to fascinate locals and tourists alike.

The old town is full of churches and some of these are really worth a look. If you are in Via Repubblica you must visit Sant'Antonio Abate, on the corner of Via Saffi (inside there is a fresco by Jacopo Bibiena) and Santa Cristina, on the corner of Via XXII Luglio. Close by, in borgo della Posta, is another small but fascinating sanctuary surrounded by old palaces, almost completely hidden: Santa Maria Maddalena, where both Catholic and Orthodox religious rites are practiced. In Via Garibaldi, Sant'Alessandro is worth a visit if you are lucky enough to find it open and in Piazzale San Bartolomeo stands a church of the same name.

There are also plenty of palaces belonging to old families of the local nobility. You only need to take a walk to notice them with their imposing façades, internal gardens and gorgeous staircases. There are some in Via Repubblica (Palazzo Rangoni, home of the prefecture, Palazzo Marchi, etc), in Via Farini (Palazzo Carmi, Palazzo Meli Lupi), in Piazzale Santafiora (still in Via Farini) stands the Palazzo Pallavicino, still lived in today by the Marquis Pierluigi. Palazzo Valenti, Palazzo Tarasconiare in Via XXII Luglio.

L'Oltretorrente

This is the most characteristic area and can be reached by taking Via Mazzini, towards the river and crossing the ponte di Mezzo. Before heading into all the small villages it is worth taking a look at the Ghiaia, the covered market at the end of Via Mazzini, where the river once ran. Oltretorrente's main road is Via D'Azeglio. Not far from the bridge is the chiesa dell'Annunziata . A little further on, is the old hospital, a Renaissance complex, now home of the State Historic Archives, the town archives, the town video library and a few societies. Every Thursday, the mercatino dell'antiquariato or antiques market takes place under the building's porticoes. Further on are the “di Pavlot” towers, symbolic of the area and a lovely example of medieval architecture. Via D'Azeglio's side streets are worth a visit as this is the heart of the real Parma. Parco Ducale

The city's common has various entrances (Ponte Verdi, Via dei Farnese, Ponte Caprazzucca, Via Kennedy, Via Pasini). For a refreshing, relaxing walk, immersed in greenery this is the ideal place. A paradise for children who can play, use the roundabout, hire small cars and run without danger. There is a splendid lake with ducks and swans and the Trianon fountain in the centre. A visit to the Palazzo Ducale surrounded by Boudard's statues is a definite must.

Cittadella

Built during the time of the Farnese, the Cittadella was a type of fort. Its perfectly conserved bastions are a long and very popular jogging track today. As in the Parco Ducale, the greenery and the trees make this a great place for babies and children. There are many students who take refuge here in the summer to read or study on the isolated benches. Inside there is also a youth hostel.