Trastevere, Rome

i lived in rome for five weeks, and by now i know the city like any tour-guide, but eventhough colosseo, saint peter etc. are amazing monuments and historic events, i found "my" rome in some small streets in trastevere. the area is located between piazza navona and castel saint angelo (just across the river). you walk from the begining of via del governo vecchio and towards the "knee" or the river. and in these small streets of rome you don't meet any tourists, but there are a lot of little second-hand shops and anticvity-shops, but most important there are also a few really local restaurants where the romans sit all day playing chess and cards while talking about.. well.. everything. so if you want to experience a real local atmosphere, then take a walk from piazza s. pantaleo up at via della saint pantaleo, then you will find yourself at via del governo vecchio which is kind of the "mainstreet" of the little area. walk around in the small streets, drink a coffee in one of the little out-door café's, eat together with the locals and of course: breathe...