Stockholm, Sweden

With the long, dark winters of northern Europe, it is hardly surprising that Stockholmers need plenty of diversions, and you do not have to walk far to find some form of entertainment. When the rain and the snows begin to assail the city, all of Stockholm's theatres enjoy their peak season, the many cinemas draw crowds with both Hollywood fare and film festivals, the exhibitions proliferate at the museums, and the bars and nightclubs stay open until early morning. If you are in the downtown area or on Söder, you will find all the recreation you need within easy walking distance; if your stamina fails you there are plenty of buses both during the day and at night, and the metro runs until midnight on weekdays, with extended night service on weekends. In the summertime, the city itself is a fantastic experience, with all its water and bridges, swimming and fishing areas, all the architectural diversity imaginable, swarming street life, and much-frequented parks. Stockholm veritably explodes with life at the first sign of spring sunshine, and both residents and visitors delight in the long days and nearly non-existent nights that characterise the fantastic Swedish summers. This is the perfect time to stroll around Gamla stan or Djurgården and admire the boats and ships in Nybroviken, try to haggle with the vendors at Hötorget, spend a whole day at Skansen or Tivoli Gröna Lund take a trip out to the fabulous archipelago, see one of the Parkteatern outdoor performances, or to go swimming and soaking up the sunshine on Långholmen.


Theaters

Stockholm's theatrical community is characterized by four main sections: state-subsidised theaters, privately operated theaters, independent theater companies, and opera/operetta.


The state-subsidised theaters typically have a large and varied selection of classics, dramas, comedies and children's theatre on offer. The Stockholm City Theater which is housed in the enormous Cultural Center at Sergels Torg, is a prime example of this with its seven stages. There are performances here from early morning until late at night, catering for all tastes and ages. Among the most popular stages are the well-known Klara "Soup theater", Unga Klara, Backstage and the Park Theater. And yes, a number of famous faces, familiar from TV and movie screens, can be glimpsed at the stage entrance. The best place to catch celebrities is probably the Royal Dramatic Theater at Nybroplan, however. Ingmar Bergman has left an indelible mark in this theatrical institution, and while The Stockholm City Theatre is modern and populist, The Royal Dramatic Theatre offers an exclusive atmosphere and royal boxes. The exception to this is their satellite stage Elverket on Östermalm, which has a much more modern and youthful appeal.

The privately operated theatres have higher ticket prices, lots of chartered buses coming in from all over Sweden, and a repertoire of musicals and farces. The beautiful Oscarsteatern with its long theatrical history, has been at the centre of much controversy lately because of acrimonious disputes over changes of ownership, but the theater and the productions are generally magnificent and lavish, with strong casts and award-winning productions. The latter is equally true of Chinateatern at Berzelii Park and Cirkus on Djurgården. Intiman, Folkan and Maxim are sure bets if you are in the mood for a farce, and Göta Lejon has also had a number of productions that have been well worth seeing over the past couple of years.


The independent theatre companies typically offer rather reasonable ticket prices, and are often home to a more experimental staging by young, hot directors and actors. Among the better known companies are Teater Galeasen and Teater Plaza, where names like Thorsten Flinck, Mikael Persbrandt, Simon Norrthon and Stefan Larsson often appear on the programmes.


The Stockholm opera scene is dominated by two stages: the Royal Opera and the Folkopera. The same comparison applies here as between The Royal Dramatic Theatre and The Stockholm City Theatre. The Royal Opera is fancy and often fairly traditional, whereas The Folkopera is often younger, fresher and more modern. The great divas appear at The Royal Opera, and the upcoming opera stars of tomorrow at The Folkopera. Both are well worth a visit.


Cinemas

If you prefer cinematic Hollywood entertainment, downtown Stockholm has a lot to offer. Along the route from Hötorget to Stureplan, you will find Filmstaden Sergel, Saga and Rigoletto practically next door to one another. On Sveavägen, there is the Grand, and Söder sports all the offerings of Filmstaden Söder, Biopalatset Rival and Victoria. Röda and Lilla Kvarn on Biblioteksgatan are well worth a visit, as are charming Astoria on Nybrogatan or beautiful Park on Sturegatan.


The suburbs also have their fair share of Hollywood blockbuster cinemas, of course. If you find yourself a bit off the beaten visitor track, you can make your way to Filmstaden Camera in Täby or Grand Lidingö.


For those who prefer a more original cinematic repertoire, one place to go is Zita on Birger Jarlsgatan. Sture also has a great deal to offer to those who have had enough of American box office hits. The non Swedish-speaking visitor will be pleased to hear that foreign films in Sweden are shown in the original language with Swedish subtitles. The one exception to this is in children's movies, which are usually dubbed into Swedish. Even with children's movies, however, you may find that there are two versions available, subtitled or dubbed. This is especially likely with the major Disney movies, and it could be well worth your while to check with the box office.


Museums

Stockholm has a lot to offer to those in the mood for more cultural types of diversions. Djurgården is an excellent first stop. The dramatic reconstruction of the war ship Vasa, which sank in the Stockholm harbour on its maiden voyage, is a truly impressive sight at Vasamuséet, which is highly recommended for visitors of almost all ages. Close by is the magnificent Nordiska muséet, which has been mistaken by many a visitor for a royal palace, with all its towers and pinnacles. Liljevalchs and Waldemarsudde are a must for art lovers, while the Museum of Maritime History is a boat lover's dream. Skansen is not just a zoological park, but also a reserve for historic architecture and crafts, and visitors to Stockholm should definitely put several hours aside for all the wonderful sights here. Next to Skansen is the Biological Museum which specialises in displays of taxidermists' work in showing animals in their natural habitats.


If you are the least bit interested in history, a visit to the Museum of Medieval History is an experience you will not soon forget. Here, you can learn all about the history of Stockholm through the centuries of the Middle Ages, and the displays are usually of very high quality. The National Museum of Natural History is a bit off the beaten track out by The University of Stockholm, but it is well worth the effort of taking a bus or the metro to see all the fantastic exhibits and installations. While you are here, don't miss out on the omniplex films at Cosmonova where you can learn more about the cosmos or the Egypt of Pharaohs.


Fans of sculpture should definitely make a point of visiting the amazing Millesgården.. Färgfabriken by Liljeholmen also has a lot to offer, in both sculpture and modern art. In the latter category, a visit to the Museum of Modern Art is also a must, naturally.


Music

The Concert Hall at Hötorget, with its philharmonic orchestra under the direction of American conductor Alan Gilbert, offers a sterling repertoire of classical music. Berwaldhallen, home to The Swedish Radio Symphony, is also highly recommended, with its unique acoustic design of beautiful natural wood. Rikskonserter arrange musical events all over Sweden, with a base at Nybrokajen in Stockholm.


For jazz and blues lovers, Fasching and Stampen are the top choices, but many of Stockholm's bars and pubs offer musical entertainment of this genre, especially on weekends, so check their programmes.


The major pop and rock concerts are usually held at the Globe Arena, Cirkus the Stadium or the Concert Hall. Tickets can usually be purchased at tobacconists displaying an ATG symbol, or at Sweden House on Hamngatan.


Nightclubs and Bars

Stockholm's undisputed centre of nightlife is the area between Kungsträdgården and Stureplan. This is where you find the hottest clubs and bars, and you can count on long queues after 11pm, with celebrities and other VIP guests blithely ignoring the said queues completely. Most places are open until 3am on weekends, with a few clubs enjoying extended hours until 5am.

In Kungsträdgården, Café Opera is the ultimate nightlife attraction, but Victoria and Daily News Café are also very popular. If you make your way towards Stureplan, you may want to check out Biblos, Sophie's Bar, Karlsson & Co or Halv trappa plus gård on the way. Once there, you cannot miss the queues outside Spy Bar, East, Laroy and Sturecompagniet.

If you prefer local pub life, Söder is the place to go. Söders Hjärta, Folkhemmet or Fenix are all safe bets. Vasastan also has a number of good pubs and bars, such as Cliff Barnes and Storstad. Or why not explore the huge selection of whiskeys and the genuine British pub atmosphere of the little known but very congenial Bishop's Arms on St. Eriksgatan. For that genuine pub feeling, The Loft on Regeringsgatan also comes highly recommended to those who prefer to stick to the central parts of downtown Stockholm.