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North East Brazil

A trip from 07 November 2006 to 28 November 2006
Mini tour of the Bahia region takig in city, rainforest … More  
Mini tour of the Bahia region takig in city, rainforest and beaches
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Brazil in November

Brazil is a great place to visit all year round, but particularly so for some pre-Christmas sun when the popular destinations such as Thailand are in the rainy season. If you can be flexible with your dates you can pick up a relatively cheap and direct flight which takes around 9 hours (try Thomas Cook or TAM). Otherwise your best bet is probably TAP airlines vis Lisbon. Bahia is a very diverse region, home to huge national parks, great beaches, various religions, capoeira and despite Rio's massive annual event, is arguably the true home of the carnival. The area around Recife is getting pretty touristy with cheap beer, great beaches and superb weather year round. I went a little further south to Salvador and beyond.

 


Salvador

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Salvador is Brazil's third largest city and reportedly, the city home to the world's third largest black population due to its strong links with the slave trade - the city was the destination for huge numbers of ships laden with African slaves. The food, culture, music and religion of the city have many African influences and the regional dance, Capoeira evolved as a form of self defence disguised as a dance form.

Despite its size, the main sights of Salvador are all easy enough to cover by foot in a day. You'll probably start at the Pelourinho -  sat at the top of a cobbled hill. This spills into a maze of streets filled with great restaurants, craft shops, jewellery stores and bars. Try the shrimp moqueca or local grills, washed down with a caipirinha. If you see a fruit barrow, stop them and try the fruit, some of it you will not have tried or even heard of, but it's all great stuff. The city is filled with churches, definitely worth a vist for their sheer exhuberance and use of gold. Then head to the main square (Praca de Se)  where if you are still hungry you can grab a great ice cream at the famour Ribeira parlour and knock back a strong but sweet coffee from one of the guys who have trucks filled with thermos flasks of homemade coffee. They are incredibly proud of their mini trucks and have competitions to acknowledge the best one! Round the corner an art deco lift (cost is a few pence) takes you to the lower level of the city with a superb craft market - perfect for locally made jewellery, leather goods and brazillian instruments. At night the city really takes off, there is literally something going on every night from samba bands parading down the narrow cobbled streets to full-on sound systems in the bars or dancing put on by local kids. In fact everyone dances... And they dance well!  The city is a little more dangerous at night, but just keep to the main streets and keep your wits about you and you'll be fine. A local scam is to put wrist bands on tourists, tied with three knots to give the wearer good luck. A small note is expected. The church in the Pelourinho is also worth visiting to witness the African based religion of Candomble but get their early to secure a good vantage point. Here is also a great spot to try some of the street-food. Cheap, but very tasty!


Itacare

ImageFrom Salvador we flew to Ilheus and then got a transfer (laid on by our hotel, Itacare Eco Resort). Great views of Brazil's east coast on the way, but now I know why it is called the rainforest - we had several days of really heavy rain. But don't let that put you off. When the sun came out the beaches were amazing - and there are 7 or so to choose from and none get too busy. Surfing is particularly good at Tiririca beach and you can hire equipment easily. There are plenty of activities to do as well, such as white water rafting, adventure courses or you can take it easy and enjoy the mangroves, ubiquitos multi-coloured crabs and birdlife along the vast Contas river. The resort too has an abundance of wildlife - particularly birds, crabs and huge frogs and offers treks to waterfalls and through the rainforest itself. You may be invited into a local cocoa farmers abode where they produce a very simple but delicious high grade chocolate. Bring some home with you!

Trancoso

ImageArguably the best stop of the trip, Trancoso is a truly unique, shabby-chic town, centred around the simple grass Quadrado on top of a hill overlooking the beach. We arrived from Itacare by car, but many people enter via Porto Seguro to the south. The people are painfully cool and incredibly creative - so opt for a cheaper hotel like Capim Santo and enjoy a true Trancoso welcome! The town is largely unspoilt and dinner in the Quadrado on a sunny evening watching an impromptu game of football in front of the white church whilst sipping a cold beer is Brazil at its best! It's no wonder it is the playground of Brazil's jet set with the likes of Gisele Bundchen (as well as Leonardo di Caprio and Naomi Campbell) owning properties in the town. That may also explain why clothes here are relatively expensive and food and drink very affordable - go for the lobster or steak! But watch when you go, if you wait until December you are in high season and the place is crowded making it very difficult yo get a table. Plus the beaches will not be so sparsely populated and it is the beaches which really make this place, miles of unspoilt sand sees the beaches roll into each other amaking for a great walk. Oh and contrary to reports in guide books there are a couple of ATMs in the town, but we experienced a power cut when we were there meaning no access to money for several days, but the Quadrado looked even better under candle light

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Talk about this trip (10)
You saying you'd like to come to Brzil...and I wanna go to England.... lol!! Why aint i Rich??
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Any opinions on Brazil carnival - Id love to go but am travelling alone
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A Yahoo! User
Not everyone that goes to Brazil or any part of it has to like it. I know a lot of people that dislike the North East. Some like orange whereas others like banana, it is personal.

I disagree with the lady that said that SPaulo is as dangerous than London. Mate, SPaulo is much more dangerous, believe me , I am from Brazil after all, and have also lived in London, therefore, I KNOW.

I totally disagree with Brazil's warm welcome to foreigners. They should be treated the same way that we, Brazilians, are treated in their countries, which is not welcoming at all. I've been there and even have the t-shirt. I also disagree to violence against tourists or any type of robbery or mugging. We don't need to be at their feet but we do need to respect them and not to mug them.
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A Yahoo! User
I worry about Hugo F. He seems to dislike the North for some unknown reason. I've travelled to Brazil 5 times and absolutely adore the country. It has great beaches and cuisine to die for just like the many countries that I have visited. What makes Brazil different is the PEOPLE. They all have this "you only live once so just enjoy it" mentality. If you go out there try and hang out with the locals (be careful though) and you will understand just what I'm saying. I,ve travelled to 35 countries to date and I must say Brazil is my favourite.

Matthew G - great posting - I agree
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A Yahoo! User
Hi there! I was born in Brazil, in Sao Paulo, and my family moved to the South, Parana, to live in the capital city of this state called Curitiba. However, I have family and friends spread all over the place from Rio de Janeiro do Porto Alegre, capital city of the most southern state, Rio Grande do Sul. I have been living in the UK for most of the last 5 years, in Brighton, south coast of UK. During this time living in the UK I had the opportunity to make some very good friendship with English people, and I know what English people who travel abroad for holidays are looing for in general. I haven't travelled my own country the way wished or perhaps I should have. Nonetheless I feel absolutely comfortable to say that Brazil is well known by its contrasts, from south to north and any website with information for turist can give you a great deal of what you will find in your destination. But knowing a bit of English mood and desire... I will give this only tip to prevent any disappointment... Go to the South first... travel around the states of Rio Grande do Sul, Santa Catarina and Parana. Curitiba, capital of Parana, despite few social problems as any other big city in the world (around 2 millions) it was awarded one of the best big cities in the world to live in..so it is worthy a look. In the same state, in the extreme west, we find the Iguacu falls, a must see! After amazing yourself with the south, climb the map and go up to the north, and you will see the country with all its wide differences...geographically and culturally... I bet you will have a whole different view of Brazil and more realistic about the potential existing behind this country, and stopping thinking Brazil is still only jungle, football and Carnival..ok... that's the some of good things Brazil can offer, but you will be amazed with the rest........ trust me. Have a good time!
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A Yahoo! User
hummm l lived in Sweden which l loved for the ski, l also lived in Denmark oh how much l miss Copenhagen:-( but now l live in England round 8 years n l love it, very different culture, but l got to respect, but l`m so used with the British way! l have travelled most of Europ n can say there s couples countrys which l didn`t liked, but can`t go slaggin them off, its only my opnion, l met people who has been at same country n they loved!!!! so who ever goes to Brazil please enjoy be safe n l garantee u`ll have a nice time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Peace
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A Yahoo! User
hey hey guys slow down!!!heheh l`m brazilian n live in europ for over 10 years!n to talk bout a country...u have to have been there, not just that but also u need to know what u like, may be l loved n someone didn`t that s the diference...l`m from SAop Paulo n yet l don`t like it, l love the Northeast of Brazil nice beachs nice friendly people nice weather nice food, south also beautiful nice food well the whole country s wonderful l love my Brazil no matter where, it just makes difference when people got different tastes!!!! so please don`t judge one town from the whole country!!!!!!
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A Yahoo! User
The bits and pieces I`ve read and heard about Brazil make ME wish I should travel TO that wonderful country soon.What a place of variety,surprises,romance and adventure.I wonder how it is possible to experience so much diversity and amazing contrasts..indigenous in the middle,African up north and European down south.
I am looking forward to seeing BRAZIL PRETTY SOON.
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I love Brasil...it is still the most country I ever talk about. I spent 6 months going up and down form Rio to Buzios, Recife, Santos,Ilheus, Salvadore di Bahia, Porto Seguro, Ilha Bella and many more....
the country is amazing and so are the people. Salvadore it's not true they try to rip you off...it's just normal as some other countries living off tourists.....so it's just to be aware not to get trapped buying of them when you don't really want to buy!....even there are ladies nicely dressed in their traditional clothes and of course you wan to take o photo of them. even if it is wiht your camera you still have to pay them some rias!! don't wear any jewelry at all, handbags or whatever as it is safer! ......I was there many many times and the people are just very nice. They try to sell you things as it is their living but they are also very warm people at the same time......
Brasil is just different from north to south and so are the people....it is an experience that cannot be forgotten!!!...
I will go again as it is worth it!!!!
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I am a Londoner but married a Brazilian in 94 and have subsequently lived in and travelled just about everywhere in Brazil since. I have lived in Santos, Porte Alergro, Buzios, Santa Caterina, Rio, Salavador, Natal and Recife and I can tell you as an Englishman that Brazil is an absolutely amazing and diverse country with something for everyone. If you go South you will see blonde almost Germanic Brazilians, you will find villages where people speak nothing but Welsh ( I kid you not ), Santa Caterina Island has some of the most beautiful beaches anywhere in the world, Rio is of course a must as is the entire state of Rio, head to Buzios for some chic boutiques and the high rollers, Porto Seguro has a great carnival in Bahia, Natal has miles and miles of sand dunes and beautiful coastline, The Pantanal is a nature lovers dream with two seperate distinctive seasons, wet and dry, Salvador has a rich history and great nightlife, Sao Paulo is as big and as bustling a city as anywhere in the world, Brasilia is just a sureal experience, the architecture has to be seen to be believed, Recife is another cracking city, Manaus is an experience as is the Amazon. So, in a nutshell, you have world class beaches and food, European influences in the South, African influences in the north, Cowboys in the Pantanal, Indians in the Amazon, all rolled into one huge wondeful country. If you do nothing else in life go to Brazil!
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