Vancouver, British Columbia

This young city was once a wild, densely forested and mountainous coastal area inhabited only by First Nations people and wildlife. Many events have combined to transform the once wild setting into the thriving cultural and business center it is today. Yet the city retains its natural beauty, now set around a diverse urban core. And to think it all began with a couple of explorers who recognized the bountiful resources and spectacular potential of the area.

When British explorer Captain James Cook first arrived here in 1778, the natives in Nootka Sound mistook the captain and his raggedy crew for a boatful of strange, transformed salmon. It's no wonder, really; the First Nations had lived undisturbed for thousands of years. The region's temperate climate, coastal location and excellent food supply made it an ideal place for natives to subsist comfortably for most of the year. Many, including the Musqueam, Kwantlen and Squamish lived and thrived along the shorelines of Burrard Inlet. But then the white European settlers came and claimed the land as their own, altering years of relatively peaceful living.

The city's transformation began with explorers seeking the Northwest Passage, a sea route through northern America. In 1791, Spanish explorer Jose Maria Narvaez came through the waters but decided not to go ashore. In June of the following year, two more explorers showed up. England's Captain George Vancouver led his ship, the sloop H.M.S. Discovery, into Burrard Inlet and later went on to chart the area's waters. He exchanged information with Spanish explorer Dionisio Alcala Galiano, who showed Captain Vancouver maps he had already made of the area.

Though the British controlled the area, it wasn't until 1808 that they sent Simon Fraser to set up trading posts in the region. The fur trade, which was followed by gold rush mania, would forever alter the region.

Settlers thrived on fish, lumber, fur and farming. In 1858, gold was discovered on the Fraser River and, within weeks, nearly 30,000 Americans had flocked to the area in search of bounty. Fearing a takeover by the Americans, the British declared the mainland a British colony, thereby keeping the prosperity under its control. In 1859, New Westminster (once called Sapperton because British sappers were stationed there) was incorporated and declared the capital of the province.

Meanwhile, a talkative gentleman named John Deighton pulled his canoe into Burrard Inlet and decided to capitalize on the area's industry. The village he founded was eventually named Gastown after him, the name derived from his loquacious nickname: "Gassy Jack." Deighton opened up a successful saloon, serving hundreds of thirsty mill workers and prospectors in the budding town. Gastown began to fill up with small shops and services. Deighton was more than just a notorious saloon owner, though. Some historians say he was the founding father of Vancouver because he had faith in its potential before anyone else did.

As the population grew, people moved outward to settle in areas now known as Burnaby and Delta. The first newspaper went to the presses in 1861, and the first hospital was built the following year. In 1865, the first telegraph lines reached here, and the first message to travel along its wires announced the assassination of U.S. President Abraham Lincoln. Other urban staples appeared including a rudimentary postal system and a stagecoach line for transportation. Extensive logging soon cleared the area.

Canada was confederated in 1867, and the sweeping effects of this change were felt almost immediately in Vancouver. One of the pivotal moments in the history of the city was the extension of the Canadian Pacific Railway in 1884. The railroad now reached clear across the country and brought thousands of people to the area to do business and settle. Rapid development began, and the population grew from 400 to 13,000 in four years.

In 1886, the city of Vancouver—population 1,000—was officially incorporated. Two months later, the Great Fire of 1886, driven by strong winds, destroyed virtually the entire downtown area in just 20 minutes. That same day, after the smoke had cleared, with just half-a-dozen buildings left standing, the citizens of Vancouver began to rebuild. Buildings erected that year still stand today. One of the most significant changes brought by the fire was the transformation of the town's military reserve into the now famous Stanley Park, the city's oasis. The opening of the Panama Canal, which facilitated travel, imports and exports to and from Europe, spurred growth of the city's port, located in one of the world's finest natural, year-round harbors.

By 1928, the Lower Mainland's population had reached more than 150,000. Many memorable mayors governed the growing city; these included Gerry McGreer. McGreer was an enthusiastic politician who came into office in the 1930s with election guns blazing. He promised to eradicate gambling, white slavery, corruption and other issues important to the city's wealthy residents. He promised the impossible, but he did succeed in building the Art Deco Vancouver City Hall in 1936.

Like everywhere else, the Great Depression took a toll on the city. Some growth, however, did occur in the 1930s, including the creation of the Vancouver Art Gallery and opening of a steel plant in Burnaby.

World War Two pulled the city out of its economic lull: shipyards, factories, parts exporting and real estate boomed. Human rights also got a positive injection when East Indian and Chinese-Canadian citizens finally got the provincial vote in 1947. Japanese-Canadians and First Nations people, however, had to wait until 1949 for the same right.

The 1950s was an era of rapid growth and prosperity, including the extensive development of suburban Vancouver. The population rose to 800,000 by 1961. The 1960s saw many additions to the city's physical and cultural portfolio: the B.C. Lion's won the Canadian Football League's Grey Cup, the Vancouver Canucks debuted in the National Hockey League, and Simon Fraser University, the Second Narrows Bridge, 401 Freeway, and the world-class Whistler Ski Resort were built.

This young cosmopolitan city has a brief but exciting history. Many weird and wonderful events have shaped its urban personality, from the local raiding of the biggest LSD factory in the world to our newfound reputation as "Hollywood North." The city has become the third largest in the country, with an international reputation as one of the best places in the world to live and visit.

Whether diners crave glamorous, elegant, warm or unadorned, Vancouver offers thousands of choices for memorable cuisine. Many of the city's establishments are internationally renowned and combine superb cuisine with extraordinary atmosphere.

Food-loving urbanites flock to bistros, dining rooms and cafes that range from home-style grub in perpetually busy diners to gourmet masterpieces in refined restaurants. Visitors can savour exotic Malaysian fare at lunch and Russian by nightfall, or choose from dozens of other ethnic cuisines. There are so many good restaurants in this city that it is difficult to narrow any list down to a few, but here are some noteworthy highlights.

Downtown

Joe Fortes Seafood & Chop House is a local favourite and a great place to go for beer and fresh smoked oysters. Other downtown highlights include Chartwell Restaurant, Diva at the Met, Le Gavroche, CinCin Ristorante and Piccolo Mondo.

West End

This beachside neighbourhood is known as one of the largest gay and lesbian communities in the country. The dining selection here is superb: busy Stepho's Souvlaki Greek Taverna has traditional Hellenic treats and the award-winning Raincity Grill, has elegant decor that is upstaged only by its West Coast flavours. Another award-winner, Sami's, has its second location here (the other is in Kitsilano), serving up Indian-inspired original creations. The popular Cafe de Paris celebrates Gallic cuisine here, too.

Yaletown

This is a good place to start your exploration of the city's culinary creativity. Many of the city's hottest eateries brighten this film and fashion centre. The Italian romance of Villa del Lupo and La Terrazza will soften even the most Scrooge-like of connoisseurs. If you prefer your meals more laid-back and inexpensive, Subeez and the Yaletown Brewing Co. are trendy hangouts with good food, eager-to-be-seen crowds, and in some cases, pouty and aloof wait-staff. The Southern-style barbecue creations at Dix BBQ & Brewery are also popular.

Gastown

This charming historic area has an eclectic selection of eateries. For hot and spicy dishes to warm up with on cool days, the Jewel of India Restaurant will satisfy. For a relaxed atmosphere and interesting experience, try the internationally-known Blunt Bros. Cafe. The Irish Heather is a relative newcomer to the area, and packs them in almost every night.

Chinatown

From Dim Sum to fine dining, Vancouver's Chinatown offers Asian delicacies and treats. Some of the most popular venues include the busy and noisy Pink Pearl Seafood Restaurant and the Floata Seafood Restaurant, for authentic Hong Kong-style creations hot and fresh from the wok. Hon's Wun-Tun House is a good choice as well.

Granville Island

This once-industrial island was transformed in the 1970s into what it is today: a city oasis with a famous public market, heavenly bakeries and cafes and fresh-food restaurants. Seafood lovers will revel in Bridges' three-level restaurant, wine bar and bistro. Other choices include the Creek Restaurant and the Arts Club Backstage Lounge.

Kitsilano

This casual and health-conscious neighbourhood has some of the top restaurants in town. Weekend line-ups shouldn't daunt you from trying out the kitschy, faux-greasy spoon humour of Sophie's Cosmic Cafe, whose breakfasts are rumoured to be the best in town. The Naam is a landmark, open 24 hours and offering a selection of organic and vegan health food. Top of the heap is Lumiere, with its fine French cuisine infused with a West Coast sensibility and the freshest of ingredients. Other critic's darlings: Sami's Indo-American Bistro's fresh and creative Indian-style; Pastis' French cuisine taken to new heights; and the raved-about Vij's Indian fusion creations. For young and casual hangouts, try the bar-like atmosphere of Nevermind.

Point Grey

This somewhat sleepy and upscale section of the city offers many dining choices.. Try the Celtic hospitality of Dentry's Irish Grill for a good time and meal. If you want something more intimate, the Brock House Restaurant provides an elegant setting for special dinners, and Cafe Madeleine has live music, readings and artwork. True Confections is the place to go afterwards for rich desserts.

East Vancouver

There is plenty to sample all over vibrant East Vancouver, from Main Street's Little India to Victoria Drive's Portuguese neighbourhood to Commercial Drive's Little Italy. Try the savoury Indian fare at Nirvana and All India Sweets, both on Main Street. Farther east on Commercial Drive, there is so much to choose from that it may take a week of dining just to get an idea of its offerings. Places like Federico's Ristorante & Supper Club offer traditional Italian meals, while newer places like the Cuba-inspired Havana and the literary Bukowski's offer hip alternatives with live entertainment. Fet's has a 1950s diner feel, while Cafe Deux Soleils serves creative vegetarian meals. Further west on Main Street, young and artistic hangouts like the Locus and the Grind & Gallery Coffee Bar are changing the shape of city dining.

South Vancouver

Restaurants are fewer and farther between in this suburban uptown area, but there are gems worth the quick drive from downtown. The elegant Seasons Hill Top Bistro in Queen Elizabeth Park offers fine dining.