With its cobbled streets, higgledy-piggledy houses and flourishing flower gardens, Västerås's old town is an utter delight. Sweden's sixth-largest city is a place of two halves: head southeast and you'll find modern shopping centres, large industries and sprawling suburbs that bear no resemblance to the teeny lanes and crafty shops you've left behind. Västerås makes for a pleasant day trip, and is a handy base for exploring Lake Mälaren and important pagan sites nearby.